Friday, October 23, 2009

Miyake

Miyake
129 Spring Street
Portland, ME 04101
207-871-9170
no website


Highly Recommended

I have been negligent about posting anything for about 10 months...but I do have an alibi...I have not been traveling much, and when I have been on the road I dasn't finding anything really worth talking about...until recently. On my last trip to Portland, Maine I had the time to check out a small Japanese restaurant called "Miyake...Food Factory", a block up the street from the Holiday Inn.

I walked in early in the evening and the place was already filled. I managed to grab the last available seat at the tiny sushi bar (it seats 5) and set about establishing my personal space. I was wedged in between the person next to me at the bar, a wall to my left and a table diner about 6 inches behind me. Once I settled in I was informed that they do not have a liquor license but I was welcome to BYOB. Fortunately there is a liquor store right next door that caters to the restaurant's clientele by carrying a wide variety of sake. Not only is the selection of sake impressive but the store's employees are knowledgeable, helpful and patient.

Armed with a highly recommended bottle of training wheel sake I went back to my seat at the bar. The board of fare was limited but very impressive; fresh, local uni prepared to order and served in the shell was simply amazing, monkfish liver pate had all of the richness and unctuousness of foie gras, roasted, local pork intestines were crisp and minerally and genuinely delicious. At this point in the meal I was full and tired so I called for the check. However, I was so impressed with my initial foray into the menu that I made reservations for the next night and fasted all the next day to be sure I had enough room to explore the menu fully.

With another bottle of sake under my arm I returned the next evening. I again sat at the bar, this time front and center, and settled in. The restaurant was less hectic (my reservation was for 8 PM) and the chefs remembered me from the night before. I offered the chefs a glass of sake, which was well received and ordered the "omakase" or "chefs choice" menu. The omakase comes at three levels; 3, 5 and 7 courses. I chose the 7 course menu, poured myself a glass of sake and sat back to enjoy the show. The chefs at the bar are responsible for all of the entree preparations as well as the sushi. Everything is cut to order and presented beautifully. I cannot recall the entire meal (it was some time ago)but some of the highlights were the swordfish belly served en brodo and a selection of nigiri sushi (each topped with an Italian inspired preparation). If I recall any of the other courses I will update this review.

Just as an aside, the Chef/owner is a classically trained Italian chef. He said that he had originally opened the restaurant as a pizza place and served Japanese dishes to friends and loyal customers. The demand for the Japanese food soon drove the pizza out of the restaurant leaving the surprisingly successful marriage of Japanese and Italian cuisine.

Not only do I highly recommend Miyake, I would go so far as to say it is a must. There are a wide range of reviews for this place on line. I found the food inspired and sophisticated, the staff friendly and the location inviting. I couldn't ask for more.

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