Wednesday, November 2, 2011

The Dirty Truth

29 Main Street
Northampton, MA01060
413.585.5999
http://www.dirtytruthbeerhall.com/

Strongly Recommended

I like this place. Yes, it is yet another beer emporium filled with brews I have never heard of but it seems to have a mission beyond the beer. Somehow I get the sense that they really want me to enjoy myself when I am there. The beer tenders know their stuff; they are obviously well schooled in their profession. I feel comfortable turning myself over to them and letting them guide me through the beer selection. Sampling beer is encouraged; questions are encouraged; relaxing is encouraged. I like it! But (sadly) I do not love it…the beer selection is very good, and (best of all) manageable. I can wade into the mix without getting over my head. It is the menu that needs work. This is the kind of place I want to walk into and get a great beer and then be blown away by the menu. I want chicken livers or sweetbreads or braised lamb shanks or really good sausages (sorry but the currywurst doesn’t qualify); I want something that is going to make me stand up and take notice, damn it.  There is nothing on the menu that does that. When I look at the menu I always feel like I am settling.  The other thing that bothers me is that a lot of the food is sweet. I don’t want sweet in a pub. I want savory, hot, smoky, fatty, rich, unctuous…not sweet.


What do I order for ballast when I am there? The baked pretzel is good. It is more bread-like than pretzel-like but it is still good. The hand cut fries with truffle oil can be great but are often overcooked and greasy. The Crawfish, Chorizo and Duck Confit Gumbo and Pork Shoulder and Duck Confiti Chili Verde are decent but that is about the extent of it.

When you are in Northampton should you go to the Dirty Truth…absolutely. Go often, have fun! Should you eat there? Not as often as you drink there.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Ibiza Tapas Restaurant and Wine Bar

7 Strong Ave
Northampton, MA 01060
(413) 303-0808
www.ibizatapaswinebar.com/

Highly Recommended

Ok, so it has been a long time since I have posted anything. I mean, a really long time. Honestly, between being really busy and being stuck in (no offense to the people who live in the Springfield Massachusetts area) the culinary hole in the universe that is Springfield/West Springfield/Westfield MA since June there just hasn't been much to write about. Recently, however, I made the leap and moved my lodging to the Northampton/Amherst area and lo-and-behold the universe is whole again. The prime motivator for me moving my lazy ass was the discovery of Ibiza Tapas. I drove past the place while wandering around late in the afternoon last Sunday (coincidentally my birthday) and decided to turn around and go investigate. I had my doubts. The place was quiet. Too quiet. Tapas bars are supposed to be crowded places with noisy groups and huddled couples but this place was almost empty. There was one other table occupied and they left soon after I sat down. I tucked myself into a corner and was quickly greeted by a cheerful waitress and then everything changed.


I started with the Coca de Sardina con Coliflor (Grilled fresh sardines on toast with cauliflower puree sun-dried tomatoes, scallions and olives with extra virgin olive and sea salt $6.75). I was served four beautiful toast points topped with a wonderfully smooth and soft puree of cauliflower, rich, earthy sardines and a salsa of tomatoes and olives. It was amazing.

I followed with Txipirones en su Tinta (Baby squid cooked in its own ink served with Bomba rice $8.75). The stew of tiny squid rings lurking in a sauce jet black with ink and paired with a brilliant white side of sweet starchy rice was sublime. The minimalist presentation made the dish all the more striking.

Next on the list was the Shrimp and bay scallop ceviche, marinated in citrus, coconut and saffron ($8.75). This dish was a bit of a disappointment. The presentation of the stark white ceviche in a martini glass was at first intriguing but I found the dish to be more soup-like than ceviche, lacking in seafood. The glass was mostly full of the marinade (which was delicious) but the overall liquidity of the dish was a little off putting.

All was forgiven once I took a bite of the Paquetitos de Callos con Chorizo y Garbanzos (Raviolis of chorizo, chickpeas, and tripe, with roasted dry red bell pepper sauce, $6.75). I can't even begin to describe this dish. It was a religious experience. The pasta was soft and smooth but had a wonderful resiliency to it. The filling was savory with just a hint of sweetness and it was all accentuated by the occasional tug on the tooth by the tripe.

By now I was stuffed but I also felt like I was on a mission. There were still things on the menu to try, damn it. So I loosened my belt and ordered the Pimientos del Piquillo (Wood roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with oxtail). I was so glad I loosened the notches on my belt. Sweet roasted peppers filled with voluptuous oxtail. It was a perfect ending to the meal.

Ok, so it wasn't the end of the meal. My waitress (By the way, did I mention she was excellent?) convinced me that my night would not be complete without having the Croquetas de Chocolate (Chocolate and almond croquettes with coconut foam and lemon gelatin, $6.50). 4 large tablespoons arrived each laden with a small, warm, almond crusted truffle nestled in a pool of lemon gelee topped with a coconut infused foam. "You have to take it all at once" the waitress ordered. I did as I was told and this perfect spoonful of dessert delivered what she promised (my night would not have been complete). The truffle pops releasing the warm, smooth chocolate ganache, followed by the sweet scented coconut foam. Just when I thought this was going to be too sweet for my tastes the tart lemon gelee kicked in to bring everything back down to earth.

I have gone back since and sampled the Jamon Serrano (Imported Serrano Ham from Spain $8.75) and it was excellent; the Boquerones (Marinated fresh anchovies on crispy olive oil toast, escabeche of beets and lump fish roe $7.75) were indescibable; the Pulpo Asado (Grilled Galician octopus, caramelized onions, potatoes, smoked paprika vinaigrette $8.75) was tender and succulent; the Albondigas de la Abuela (Spanish veal and pork meatballs with potato, pepper, white wine and saffron broth $7.75) while a little salty had everything you could want in a plate of comfort food, and; last (but by far not least) the Croquetas de Bacalao (Cod fish croquettes served with aïoli $6.50) were perfect litte spheres, with crisp exterior with silken interior.

Yes, I did have one other dessert too...Torrija de Queso (Bread pudding with fresh cheese, dulce de leche ice cream and sweet and sour strawberry sauce $6.00) which is a work of art. Sweet, sour, savory all rolled into one.

A few additional notes...the wine list is extensive and very inexpensive with some real bargains. The portions are larger that I am used to for tapas so dining with 2 or more is the best way to go. Finally, this place is cheap! Between the reasonable prices and the large serving sizes you can get out of there with dinner for 2 (including wine and tip) for well under a sixty five. I suggest 4 plates for 2 people.

If you are in the Northampton area go now, go often before everyone finds out about it and the line is out the door. They don't take reservations.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Oklahoma Joes


Restaurant website
3002 West 47th Ave
Kansas City, KS 66103
map


Strongly Recommended

Who doesn't like gas station BBQ? Unlike other gas station BBQ, this has actually taken over most of the gas station until it is more of a restaurant than a place to fill your car. When I arrived, there was a line out the door and across the parking lot. Once inside, I realized that the line didn't end there, but wrapped around the inside of the building. But the service is quick and efficient, and seem to be used to such a lunch rush. Seating is at a bar along the window and at tables crammed into every available space. Amazingly it wasn't that difficult to find a place to sit, even with the crowd.

I ordered the BBQ Dinner of ribs and pulled pork, served with one side (beans) and texas toast (a steal at $11.79). The ribs were awesome! Great flavor, a little chewy but not tough, and not falling apart. The pulled port was fine - it was pulled pork. The BBQ sauce was good, but I have friends who make just as good pulled pork and as good or better sauce.

I have to say that besides the ribs the other highlight of the meal was the beans, which I don't usually look forward to. But these were clearly homemade beans with nice BBQ flavor and little bits of meat running around. I ate the entire thing (and then flew home to Boston, yay!). The texas toast was good too, and fun to watch them run the pieces of white bread through this buttering machine. I have to wonder where one buys a buttering machine. In any case, if you are in Kansas City, this place is worth a visit!

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Eclipse Di Luna

764 Miami Circle
Atlanta, Georgia
404.846.0449
http://www.eclipsediluna.com/

Highly Recommended

Set off of Piedmont Road, North East at the rear end of the Miami Circle industrial park (next to the train tracks), Eclipse Di Luna is not difficult to find so long as you are not distracted by your surroundings. Once you turn off of the main road, do not be discouraged by your surroundings; at the end of the road you will find the restaurant with an impossible to miss street number and ample parking.

The restaurant has two separate dining rooms and an outdoor patio. I recommend either the back dining room or the outdoor patio. The front dining room is crowded, very hot and very loud.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

Xinh Xinh

7 Beach St
Boston, MA 02111
617-422-0501

Highly Recommended
 
Xinh Xinh (or as we call it "double-X) is located on Beach Street in Chinatown, about a half a block off of Washington Street. This tiny restaurant squeezes as many patrons in at lunch as possible so get there early or arrive after 1:30.

The menu is predominantly Vietnamese Pho (noodle soup). I have had the Pho Dac Biet, which is a soup of rice noodles with rare eye round, soft tendon, brisket and tripe and the Pho Sate Dac Biet; a fiery hot beef soup with noodles and herbs. Both were excellent and by far the best examples of Pho in Chinatown.  The menu also incorporates vermicelli and rice dishes, hot pots and porridges. The Duck Porridge (the server was worried when I ordered it) was the consistency of thin rice pudding with a pale, bland look but looks can be deceiving.  The porridge was amazing! Hot and savory with generous amounts of roast duck and herbs, this excellent comfort food that was perfect on the cold winter day I ordered it.  The vermicelli dishes are wonderfully interactive that are perfect for sharing. Hard disks of rice vermicelli are brought to the table with a plate of fillings and a bowl of hot water. The diners soften the disks in the hot water and fill them themselves. The shrimp paste grilled on sugar cane is particularly delicious.  The Pork Hot Pot was spicy and sweet and totally addictive.

The only down side to “Double X” is the tiny size and the cold wind that blasts through the place during the winter every time the front door opens. Go early and leave your hat on but definitely go!

Taiwan Cafe

34 Oxford Street
Boston, MA 02111
617-426-8181

Highly Recommended

Taiwan Cafe is the sort of place you would walk by without giving it a second look. In fact, you probably wouldn't give it a first look. Perched at the top of a flight of stairs and looking out over Oxford Street the location does not exactly jump out at you. Once you find it, however, it will quickly become a favorite. I consider myself a regular, going at least twice a week with a group of friends from work. We try to get there no later than 11:45 to avoid the lunch rush that begins daily at noon. The service is fast, efficient and friendly though the servers' command of English varies.

If you order from the lunch specials list you will receive a bowl of soup and a side of rice to accompany your meal. My friends and I have nicknamed the thin, salty broth (typically served with a small piece of pork "knuckle" or some dried fungus or a thin noodle) "dishwater" soup due to the light grey, sometimes greasy, appearance. However, it is hot and tasty and is a nice starter to the meal. In addition, quite often a complimentary daikon radish or cucumber pickle is offered before the entrees arrive.

This is not your typical "Asian American" board of fare. The lunch menu runs the gambit from Chinese Mushrooms with Green (sic) to Spicy Pork Intestine with Mustard. Meals arrive as they are finished in the kitchen but rarely do we wait more than a few minutes for our table to be full. We normally go with 1 lunch entree per person and approach the meal family style. The eggplant with basil is a staple on the table. Sweet and spicy it arrives napalm hot. The sweet and sour pork is fried crispy and laced with onions and tossed with a sharp, vinegar sauce. The spicy pork kidneys are minerally and delicious made up of thin sliced of fresh kidney sautéed with slices of ginger and chili peppers. The lunch menu is very extensive and wholly interesting.

The lunch specials are all about $6.95 and we never leave wanting. If there is an adventurous culinary bone in your body, Taiwan Cafe is a great place to indulge it.

Sunday, January 31, 2010

O Ya

9 East Street
Boston, MA 02111
617-654-9900 or 617-654-9909
http://www.oyarestaurantboston.com/

Not Recommended (sort of)

Maybe I don't get it...I had heard so much about O Ya...The press was great; critics raved; my expectations were high and and so was my disappointment!  Sure the atmosphere is intimate and romantic, small without being crowded, dark without being dim (the interior designer did a good job)...sure the service was good (but clumsy; the server brought the check before the last course) but all of these things I would expect from a high end restaurant in Boston.

As a walk-in getting a seat at the bar was lucky.  The matre'd was hesitant because there was a reservation two hours later and wanted to be sure there wouldn't be any conflict.  I appreciated the consideration.  The waiter was prompt, efficient and knowledgable.  The menu was extensive and interesting.  The prices were high.  Again, all of these things I would expect from a high end restaurant in Boston.

My problem was with the food.  The presentation was striking, the quality was high and the selections were creative but the execution was poor.  The Scarlet Sea Scallop ($8) with white soy yuzu sauce and yuzu tobiko sounded great but marinating the scallops in beet juice made them taste kind of mouldy.  The Warm Eel ($12) with thai basil, kabayaki and fresh Kyoto sansho was nice and the addition of the fresh herbs was an interesting twist but otherwise was almost indistinguishable from Unagi I have eaten elsewhere.  The Hamachi Belly ($18) with yuzu soy marinated sea urchin was torched and tasted like acetaline rather than fish belly but the Wild Bluefin Chu Toro ($12) was excellent.  One dish out of four really grabbing my attention is not a success.  The $70 price tag (which included two glasses of sake but not the tip) was also hard to justify.  I might go back just because everybody else seems to think so highly of O Ya.  I might go back because there are other items on the menu I would really like to try.  Maybe I will wait until I win the lottery.

Saturday, December 12, 2009

Blackfish

17 Truro Center Rd, Truro, MA 02666

Phone: (508) 349-3399
No web site

Highly Recommended

Sleepy little Truro Center now has a destination of choice. Above and beyond the Post Office, "Jams" and Mac's Fish Market there is Blackfish. Located in the former Blacksmith Shop Restaurant, Blackfish offers the Lower Cape an exceptional choice in finer dining. The casually sophisticated atmosphere sets the diner up very well for what is to come. There is a small bar with an exceptional bartender who makes you feel comfortable and welcome.

The menu is impressive:
Appetizers; Wellfleet oysters on the half shell with a Caribbean mignonette ($12), buttermilk fried oysters ($13), steamed littleneck clams with soffrito ($13), pan-seared sea scallops over parmesan fondue ($11), confit pork belly with hoisin bbq over white corn polenta ($11), rabbit ragu over fresh papperadelle ($12), sauteed seasonal mushrooms on toast points ($9), seared lamb loin on a rosemary skewer with homemade lavash, tsaziki and mint charmoula ($10), rustic caramelized onion and leek tartlet with sheeps milk cheese and duck prosciutto ($10), seared foie gras on toasted brioche with strawberry rhubarb compote ($15), fleetian mussels in a tomato broth with smoky bacon, cilantro, jalapeno and lime ($13), pickled red beet carpaccio and golden beet tartare with truffle honey, hazelnuts and farmer's cheese ($10), ptown mussels with fennel, sweet Italian sausage and a savory cream broth ($14)

Salads: house salad with Boston Bibb, fresh herbs, sweet 100 tomatoes and a balsamic vinaigrette ($6), roasted endive and pear salad with sweet gorgonzola dressing ($10), nicoise salad with house cured tuna, olives, quail egg, haricot vert and artichoke heart ($13), frisee salad with a panko crusted fried duck egg, lardon and mustard vinaigrette ($11).



Entrees: panko crusted sole with a lemon caper beurre blanc, cauliflower mash and local asparagus ($22), grilled organic salmon with romesco sauce, puy lentils and sauteed spinach ($24), fresh tuna bolognese over papperadelle house specialty slow simmered sauce finished with mascarpone cheese and lemon confit ($23), sauteed wild mushroom and tagliatelle pasta ($19), slow roasted pork shoulder with celery root puree and local asparagus ($22), pan-roasted haddock with salsa verde, brown butter, whipped salsify and haricot vert ($20), rabbit ragu over fresh papperadelle ($20), braised organic veal with wild mushroom jus and potato puree ($21), bone-in rib eye with truffled chips and sauteed swiss chard ($29), Niman Ranch Burgers served with house fried chips and a pickle ($9-$11).

Of the menu items I sampled there was not a dog in the bunch. The sole was light and crisp, the tuna Bolognese was rich and savory, the rabbit ragu was succulent and infused with herbs and wine. The only issue I had with any of the food was the truffled chips on the rib eye were clumsy; too many of them to be able to eat them before they got soggy. I would have preferred a pureed potato infused with truffle oil and garnished with chips (if the chef is compelled).

The wine list is impressive, with a good range on varieties and prices. The service was friendly and efficient without being intrusive. This has become one of my favorite restaurants on Cape Cod and I would encourage you to become a regular if you possibly can.

Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Rustic Kitchen Bistro

94 Derby Street
Derby Street Shoppes
Hingham, MA 02043-4202
781-749-2700

Not Recommended

To put this in the right context, I was already in a bad mood when I arrived. It was raining and cold and the Rustic Kitchen Bistro was not a destination of choice: it was a destination of I-didn't-want-to drive-further. With that said the Rustic Kitchen Bistro did not do much to improve my evening. I walked in to the crowded restaurant and sat down at a still dirty but open seat at the bar. The soft spoken bartender, who finally came over to see what I wanted to drink, was difficult to hear over the din of the barroom. I cannot blame the bartender too much for his lack of attention; he not only had a full bar but also had 8 tables going.

The menu looked promising. I wasn't starving so I ordered simply. A glass of pinot noir, Rustic Bistro Salad and a Margherita Pizza. Like I said, I was in a bad mood. The wine was fine at $8.50 a glass. The salad ($7.50) was average to poor. I sat faced with a enormous pile of mesculm mix clumsily topped with red onions, sliced radishes, cucumber cresents (sliced cucumbers with the seeds removed)and oversized croutons. After removing the onions and croutons to a side plate for disposal I tucked into the salad. To my further disappointment the greens were limp, weak and overdressed with a sweet but otherwise flavorless dressing. To make matters worse was the garnish of a stale and useless parmesan canolli. It had obviously made a day or more earlier and was suffering for it. Salad should be simple, fresh and lightly dressed; finished with course salt and fresh cracked pepper. This missed the target on all counts.

Immediately on the heals of my salad the pizza arrived ($10.50). The oblong pie was just slightly bigger than a slice of a large pizza. The best thing I can say about the pizze is that it was hot. The sauce was insipid, the basil shredded and flavorless. The fresh mozarella was nice but the flavor of the cheese was lost until the pizza cooled.

Maybe it was just my bad mood...maybe.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Miyake

Miyake
129 Spring Street
Portland, ME 04101
207-871-9170
no website


Highly Recommended

I have been negligent about posting anything for about 10 months...but I do have an alibi...I have not been traveling much, and when I have been on the road I dasn't finding anything really worth talking about...until recently. On my last trip to Portland, Maine I had the time to check out a small Japanese restaurant called "Miyake...Food Factory", a block up the street from the Holiday Inn.

I walked in early in the evening and the place was already filled. I managed to grab the last available seat at the tiny sushi bar (it seats 5) and set about establishing my personal space. I was wedged in between the person next to me at the bar, a wall to my left and a table diner about 6 inches behind me. Once I settled in I was informed that they do not have a liquor license but I was welcome to BYOB. Fortunately there is a liquor store right next door that caters to the restaurant's clientele by carrying a wide variety of sake. Not only is the selection of sake impressive but the store's employees are knowledgeable, helpful and patient.

Armed with a highly recommended bottle of training wheel sake I went back to my seat at the bar. The board of fare was limited but very impressive; fresh, local uni prepared to order and served in the shell was simply amazing, monkfish liver pate had all of the richness and unctuousness of foie gras, roasted, local pork intestines were crisp and minerally and genuinely delicious. At this point in the meal I was full and tired so I called for the check. However, I was so impressed with my initial foray into the menu that I made reservations for the next night and fasted all the next day to be sure I had enough room to explore the menu fully.

With another bottle of sake under my arm I returned the next evening. I again sat at the bar, this time front and center, and settled in. The restaurant was less hectic (my reservation was for 8 PM) and the chefs remembered me from the night before. I offered the chefs a glass of sake, which was well received and ordered the "omakase" or "chefs choice" menu. The omakase comes at three levels; 3, 5 and 7 courses. I chose the 7 course menu, poured myself a glass of sake and sat back to enjoy the show. The chefs at the bar are responsible for all of the entree preparations as well as the sushi. Everything is cut to order and presented beautifully. I cannot recall the entire meal (it was some time ago)but some of the highlights were the swordfish belly served en brodo and a selection of nigiri sushi (each topped with an Italian inspired preparation). If I recall any of the other courses I will update this review.

Just as an aside, the Chef/owner is a classically trained Italian chef. He said that he had originally opened the restaurant as a pizza place and served Japanese dishes to friends and loyal customers. The demand for the Japanese food soon drove the pizza out of the restaurant leaving the surprisingly successful marriage of Japanese and Italian cuisine.

Not only do I highly recommend Miyake, I would go so far as to say it is a must. There are a wide range of reviews for this place on line. I found the food inspired and sophisticated, the staff friendly and the location inviting. I couldn't ask for more.