Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Muddy River Smokehouse

21 Congress Street
Portsmouth, NH 03801
Phone: (603) 430-9582
Fax: (603) 430-9338

Not Recommended


It was on a brutally cold January afternoon in the quaint New England city of Portsmouth that i stumbled into a small doorway in the heart of the city only to find myself at the beginning of a long hallway that reached invitingly back into the heart of the building. To my right, a large menu painted on the wall advertised the board of fare. To the left, a bar with a large array of taps at the ready. Further down the hallway opened into a barn boarded dining room with a high tinned ceiling and chequered table cloths. I was greeted by a slightly confused owner who did not seem to recognize me as a customer (I think she thought me a vagrant) but quickly passed me off to a waitress when she realized her mistake. I was seated at a table under a faux shed roof and offered a menu and beverage. The beer menu is extensive and included some decent choices. I had a Telluride Ale, but could have easily been satisfied with a half a dozen other options. The menu had a good range of bbq selections. Various types of ribs (St. Louis, baby back, beef) chicken, pulled pork, brisket, sausage. There were also appetizers and salads but no real surprises there either.


I have spent considerable time traveling; I have eaten ribs and brisket in Lockhart, Texas, St. Louis and Kansas City, North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama not to mention Boston and I have to admit the ribs at the Muddy River Smokehouse were some of the most forgettable I have ever eaten. Tough and chewy without a hint of smoke, slathered is a sauce so sweet that I felt nauseous by the end. The sausages were also nondescript, suffering from the same lack of attention and finesse. I am not a bbq snob by any stretch of the imagination but the sickly sweet concoction that was passed off for sauce was too much to stand.

I could see going to the Muddy River Smokehouse after work with friends for a few beers and a bit to eat. In all honesty, I will give the place a second chance and try the babyback ribs. Not my favorite ribs but they are less temperamental. My advice to the chef...lay off the sweets.

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