Acacia

129 N. Market Street
Frederick, MD 21701
301-694-3015
Map

http://www.acacia129.com/index.php


Acacia is a gem of a restaurant in the historic village of Frederick, MD. With an unassuming storefront and sidewalk placard announcing the evening specials, Acacia is not a particular standout in the downtown. However, once inside that impression changes; you know this place is something special. With locals sitting at the bar indulging in a little harmless gossip or at tables talking about their day at the office, you know that this place is for real. It does not carry any of the pretencions "see-and-be-seen" baggage of some of their competitors in town. The atmosphere is very relaxed and open without feeling like a fishbowl.

A small oak bar and tables fill in the front room of the restaurant, more formal seating in the rear. The menu, which is described as the ubiquitous "New American" has a decidedly Asian tilt to it. I ordered the Firecracker Prawns to start ($7). A generous plate of medium sized shrimp were seared with enough chilies to leave a pleasant burn on my tongue for a few minutes. For my main course, and on the advice of the bartender, I ordered the Golden Veal Scaloppini with Cremini and Shitake Madeira Demi ($24) from the specials menu. The veal was perfectly cooked; a little crispy on the outside, tender and succulent otherwise. The mushrooms, however, were too thinly sliced and were not included generously enough to make a real difference in the dish. I would recommend to the chef to either go in the direction of a duxelle (a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots and herbs cooked in butter until dry) to intensify the mushroom flavor, or a rustic approach approach, leaving the mushrooms in large pieces to emphasise their visual impact. The Maderia wine demi glace, which had no discernible Maderia flavor to it, needed some additional acid and salt to really brighten the flavors. The roasted asparagus added a very pleasant smokiness to the plate and the potatoes were fine, though baby carrots or maybe beets would have added needed color to a drab looking plate. With all this said, the dish was successful none the less. For dessert I went back to the appetizer menu for the American Artisan Cheese Plate served with roasted walnuts, toasted crustinis, apples and grapes (market price). The selection of cheeses was excellent; it ranged from a smooth and pungent soft cheese from Vermont to a bright, aggressive blue cheese from Wisconsin and four other selections in between. My only issue with the plate was that the cheeses were not presented in a tasting order so the Vermont cheese, which I tried first, overwhelmed my taste buds for the next offering.

These are some of the menu selections I am looking forward to trying in the future.
From the appetizer menu ($5 to $12):

• “Hereford” Beef Tenderloin Tartar
• Housemade Vegetarian Spring Rolls
• Ginger -Scallion Pork Dumplings.

Entree selections ($11 to $24):

• Rosemary Roasted New Zealand Saddle of Baby Lamb
• Herb Grilled Tender Veal Loin Chop
• Miso-Bronzed Alaskan Black Cod

Desserts ($6 or $7) Turkish Coffee Creme Brulee or Raspberry Flan Tart.

What I have to go back to with this restaurant is the genuine feeling of being welcome. The bartenders (and the clientele) were open and inviting; asking me my name and introduced themselves and warmly including me in their conversations. Food is only one part of a dining experience, especially when traveling alone. When a restaurant is fortunate enough to have gracious servers who are attracting an unassuming and interesting clientele, a little faux pas with a dish here or there is immediately forgivable. I not only recommend Acacia for dinner but I recommend becoming a regular if your time allows.