Federal Bites

The Dirty Truth

2011-11-02T17:26:00.000-04:00

29 Main Street
Northampton, MA01060
413.585.5999
http://www.dirtytruthbeerhall.com/

Strongly Recommended

I like this place. Yes, it is yet another beer emporium filled with brews I have never heard of but it seems to have a mission beyond the beer. Somehow I get the sense that they really want me to enjoy myself when I am there. The beer tenders know their stuff; they are obviously well schooled in their profession. I feel comfortable turning myself over to them and letting them guide me through the beer selection. Sampling beer is encouraged; questions are encouraged; relaxing is encouraged. I like it! But (sadly) I do not love it…the beer selection is very good, and (best of all) manageable. I can wade into the mix without getting over my head. It is the menu that needs work. This is the kind of place I want to walk into and get a great beer and then be blown away by the menu. I want chicken livers or sweetbreads or braised lamb shanks or really good sausages (sorry but the currywurst doesn’t qualify); I want something that is going to make me stand up and take notice, damn it. There is nothing on the menu that does that. When I look at the menu I always feel like I am settling. The other thing that bothers me is that a lot of the food is sweet. I don’t want sweet in a pub. I want savory, hot, smoky, fatty, rich, unctuous…not sweet.

What do I order for ballast when I am there? The baked pretzel is good. It is more bread-like than pretzel-like but it is still good. The hand cut fries with truffle oil can be great but are often overcooked and greasy. The Crawfish, Chorizo and Duck Confit Gumbo and Pork Shoulder and Duck Confiti Chili Verde are decent but that is about the extent of it.

When you are in Northampton should you go to the Dirty Truth…absolutely. Go often, have fun! Should you eat there? Not as often as you drink there.

Ibiza Tapas Restaurant and Wine Bar

2011-09-14T08:49:00.000-04:00

7 Strong Ave
Northampton, MA 01060
(413) 303-0808
www.ibizatapaswinebar.com/

Highly Recommended

Ok, so it has been a long time since I have posted anything. I mean, a really long time. Honestly, between being really busy and being stuck in (no offense to the people who live in the Springfield Massachusetts area) the culinary hole in the universe that is Springfield/West Springfield/Westfield MA since June there just hasn't been much to write about. Recently, however, I made the leap and moved my lodging to the Northampton/Amherst area and lo-and-behold the universe is whole again. The prime motivator for me moving my lazy ass was the discovery of Ibiza Tapas. I drove past the place while wandering around late in the afternoon last Sunday (coincidentally my birthday) and decided to turn around and go investigate. I had my doubts. The place was quiet. Too quiet. Tapas bars are supposed to be crowded places with noisy groups and huddled couples but this place was almost empty. There was one other table occupied and they left soon after I sat down. I tucked myself into a corner and was quickly greeted by a cheerful waitress and then everything changed.

I started with the Coca de Sardina con Coliflor (Grilled fresh sardines on toast with cauliflower puree sun-dried tomatoes, scallions and olives with extra virgin olive and sea salt $6.75). I was served four beautiful toast points topped with a wonderfully smooth and soft puree of cauliflower, rich, earthy sardines and a salsa of tomatoes and olives. It was amazing.

I followed with Txipirones en su Tinta (Baby squid cooked in its own ink served with Bomba rice $8.75). The stew of tiny squid rings lurking in a sauce jet black with ink and paired with a brilliant white side of sweet starchy rice was sublime. The minimalist presentation made the dish all the more striking.

Next on the list was the Shrimp and bay scallop ceviche, marinated in citrus, coconut and saffron ($8.75). This dish was a bit of a disappointment. The presentation of the stark white ceviche in a martini glass was at first intriguing but I found the dish to be more soup-like than ceviche, lacking in seafood. The glass was mostly full of the marinade (which was delicious) but the overall liquidity of the dish was a little off putting.

All was forgiven once I took a bite of the Paquetitos de Callos con Chorizo y Garbanzos (Raviolis of chorizo, chickpeas, and tripe, with roasted dry red bell pepper sauce, $6.75). I can't even begin to describe this dish. It was a religious experience. The pasta was soft and smooth but had a wonderful resiliency to it. The filling was savory with just a hint of sweetness and it was all accentuated by the occasional tug on the tooth by the tripe.

By now I was stuffed but I also felt like I was on a mission. There were still things on the menu to try, damn it. So I loosened my belt and ordered the Pimientos del Piquillo (Wood roasted piquillo peppers stuffed with oxtail). I was so glad I loosened the notches on my belt. Sweet roasted peppers filled with voluptuous oxtail. It was a perfect ending to the meal.

Ok, so it wasn't the end of the meal. My waitress (By the way, did I mention she was excellent?) convinced me that my night would not be complete without having the Croquetas de Chocolate (Chocolate and almond croquettes with coconut foam and lemon gelatin, $6.50). 4 large tablespoons arrived each laden with a small, warm, almond crusted truffle nestled in a pool of lemon gelee topped with a coconut infused foam. "You have to take it all at once" the waitress ordered. I did as I was told and this perfect spoonful of dessert delivered what she promised (my night would not have been complete). The truffle pops releasing the warm, smooth chocolate ganache, followed by the sweet scented coconut foam. Just when I thought this was going to be too sweet for my tastes the tart lemon gelee kicked in to bring everything back down to earth.

I have gone back since and sampled the Jamon Serrano (Imported Serrano Ham from Spain $8.75) and it was excellent; the Boquerones (Marinated fresh anchovies on crispy olive oil toast, escabeche of beets and lump fish roe $7.75) were indescibable; the Pulpo Asado (Grilled Galician octopus, caramelized onions, potatoes, smoked paprika vinaigrette $8.75) was tender and succulent; the Albondigas de la Abuela (Spanish veal and pork meatballs with potato, pepper, white wine and saffron broth $7.75) while a little salty had everything you could want in a plate of comfort food, and; last (but by far not least) the Croquetas de Bacalao (Cod fish croquettes served with aïoli $6.50) were perfect litte spheres, with crisp exterior with silken interior.

Yes, I did have one other dessert too...Torrija de Queso (Bread pudding with fresh cheese, dulce de leche ice cream and sweet and sour strawberry sauce $6.00) which is a work of art. Sweet, sour, savory all rolled into one.

A few additional notes...the wine list is extensive and very inexpensive with some real bargains. The portions are larger that I am used to for tapas so dining with 2 or more is the best way to go. Finally, this place is cheap! Between the reasonable prices and the large serving sizes you can get out of there with dinner for 2 (including wine and tip) for well under a sixty five. I suggest 4 plates for 2 people.

If you are in the Northampton area go now, go often before everyone finds out about it and the line is out the door. They don't take reservations.

Oklahoma Joes

2011-06-09T19:58:00.003-04:00

Restaurant we bsite
3002 West 47th Ave
Kansas City, KS 66103
map

Strongly Recommended

Who doesn't like gas station BBQ? Unlike other gas station BBQ, this has actually taken over most of the gas station until it is more of a restaurant than a place to fill your car. When I arrived, there was a line out the door and across the parking lot. Once inside, I realized that the line didn't end there, but wrapped around the inside of the building. But the service is quick and efficient, and seem to be used to such a lunch rush. Seating is at a bar along the window and at tables crammed into every available space. Amazingly it wasn't that difficult to find a place to sit, even with the crowd.

I ordered the BBQ Dinner of ribs and pulled pork, served with one side (beans) and texas toast (a steal at $11.79). The ribs were awesome! Great flavor, a little chewy but not tough, and not falling apart. The pulled port was fine - it was pulled pork. The BBQ sauce was good, but I have friends who make just as good pulled pork and as good or better sauce.

I have to say that besides the ribs the other highlight of the meal was the beans, which I don't usually look forward to. But these were clearly homemade beans with nice BBQ flavor and little bits of meat running around. I ate the entire thing (and then flew home to Boston, yay!). The texas toast was good too, and fun to watch them run the pieces of white bread through this buttering machine. I have to wonder where one buys a buttering machine. In any case, if you are in Kansas City, this place is worth a visit!

Eclipse Di Luna

2010-02-07T16:51:00.000-05:00

764 Miami Circle

Atlanta, Georgia
404.846.0449
http://www.eclipsediluna.com/

Highly Recommended

Set off of Piedmont Road, North East at the rear end of the Miami Circle industrial park (next to the train tracks), Eclipse Di Luna is not difficult to find so long as you are not distracted by your surroundings. Once you turn off of the main road, do not be discouraged by your surroundings; at the end of the road you will find the restaurant with an impossible to miss street number and ample parking.

The restaurant has two separate dining rooms and an outdoor patio. I recommend either the back dining room or the outdoor patio. The front dining room is crowded, very hot and very loud.

Xinh Xinh

2010-02-06T19:44:00.003-05:00

7 Beach St
Boston, MA 02111
617-422-0501

Highly Recommended

Xinh Xinh (or as we call it "double-X) is located on Beach Street in Chinatown, about a half a block off of Washington Street. This tiny restaurant squeezes as many patrons in at lunch as possible so get there early or arrive after 1:30.

The menu is predominantly Vietnamese Pho (noodle soup). I have had the Pho Dac Biet, which is a soup of rice noodles with rare eye round, soft tendon, brisket and tripe and the Pho Sate Dac Biet; a fiery hot beef soup with noodles and herbs. Both were excellent and by far the best examples of Pho in Chinatown. The menu also incorporates vermicelli and rice dishes, hot pots and porridges. The Duck Porridge (the server was worried when I ordered it) was the consistency of thin rice pudding with a pale, bland look but looks can be deceiving. The porridge was amazing! Hot and savory with generous amounts of roast duck and herbs, this excellent comfort food that was perfect on the cold winter day I ordered it. The vermicelli dishes are wonderfully interactive that are perfect for sharing. Hard disks of rice vermicelli are brought to the table with a plate of fillings and a bowl of hot water. The diners soften the disks in the hot water and fill them themselves. The shrimp paste grilled on sugar cane is particularly delicious. The Pork Hot Pot was spicy and sweet and totally addictive.

The only down side to “Double X” is the tiny size and the cold wind that blasts through the place during the winter every time the front door opens. Go early and leave your hat on but definitely go!

Taiwan Cafe

2010-02-06T19:10:00.003-05:00

34 Oxford Street
Boston, MA 02111
617-426-8181

Highly Recommended

Taiwan Cafe is the sort of place you would walk by without giving it a second look. In fact, you probably wouldn't give it a first look. Perched at the top of a flight of stairs and looking out over Oxford Street the location does not exactly jump out at you. Once you find it, however, it will quickly become a favorite. I consider myself a regular, going at least twice a week with a group of friends from work. We try to get there no later than 11:45 to avoid the lunch rush that begins daily at noon. The service is fast, efficient and friendly though the servers' command of English varies.

If you order from the lunch specials list you will receive a bowl of soup and a side of rice to accompany your meal. My friends and I have nicknamed the thin, salty broth (typically served with a small piece of pork "knuckle" or some dried fungus or a thin noodle) "dishwater" soup due to the light grey, sometimes greasy, appearance. However, it is hot and tasty and is a nice starter to the meal. In addition, quite often a complimentary daikon radish or cucumber pickle is offered before the entrees arrive.

This is not your typical "Asian American" board of fare. The lunch menu runs the gambit from Chinese Mushrooms with Green (sic) to Spicy Pork Intestine with Mustard. Meals arrive as they are finished in the kitchen but rarely do we wait more than a few minutes for our table to be full. We normally go with 1 lunch entree per person and approach the meal family style. The eggplant with basil is a staple on the table. Sweet and spicy it arrives napalm hot. The sweet and sour pork is fried crispy and laced with onions and tossed with a sharp, vinegar sauce. The spicy pork kidneys are minerally and delicious made up of thin sliced of fresh kidney sautéed with slices of ginger and chili peppers. The lunch menu is very extensive and wholly interesting.

The lunch specials are all about $6.95 and we never leave wanting. If there is an adventurous culinary bone in your body, Taiwan Cafe is a great place to indulge it.

O Ya

2010-01-31T06:14:00.002-05:00

9 East Street
Boston, MA 02111
617-654-9900 or 617-654-9909
http://www.oyarestaurantboston.com/

Not Recommended (sort of)

Maybe I don't get it...I had heard so much about O Ya...The press was great; critics raved; my expectations were high and and so was my disappointment! Sure the atmosphere is intimate and romantic, small without being crowded, dark without being dim (the interior designer did a good job)...sure the service was good (but clumsy; the server brought the check before the last course) but all of these things I would expect from a high end restaurant in Boston.

As a walk-in getting a seat at the bar was lucky. The matre'd was hesitant because there was a reservation two hours later and wanted to be sure there wouldn't be any conflict. I appreciated the consideration. The waiter was prompt, efficient and knowledgable. The menu was extensive and interesting. The prices were high. Again, all of these things I would expect from a high end restaurant in Boston.

My problem was with the food. The presentation was striking, the quality was high and the selections were creative but the execution was poor. The Scarlet Sea Scallop ($8) with white soy yuzu sauce and yuzu tobiko sounded great but marinating the scallops in beet juice made them taste kind of mouldy. The Warm Eel ($12) with thai basil, kabayaki and fresh Kyoto sansho was nice and the addition of the fresh herbs was an interesting twist but otherwise was almost indistinguishable from Unagi I have eaten elsewhere. The Hamachi Belly ($18) with yuzu soy marinated sea urchin was torched and tasted like acetaline rather than fish belly but the Wild Bluefin Chu Toro ($12) was excellent. One dish out of four really grabbing my attention is not a success. The $70 price tag (which included two glasses of sake but not the tip) was also hard to justify. I might go back just because everybody else seems to think so highly of O Ya. I might go back because there are other items on the menu I would really like to try. Maybe I will wait until I win the lottery.

Blackfish

2009-12-12T21:45:00.001-05:00

17 Truro Center Rd, Truro, MA 02666

Phone: (508) 349-3399
No web site

Highly Recommended

Sleepy little Truro Center now has a destination of choice. Above and beyond the Post Office, "Jams" and Mac's Fish Market there is Blackfish. Located in the former Blacksmith Shop Restaurant, Blackfish offers the Lower Cape an exceptional choice in finer dining. The casually sophisticated atmosphere sets the diner up very well for what is to come. There is a small bar with an exceptional bartender who makes you feel comfortable and welcome.

The menu is impressive:
Appetizers; Wellfleet oysters on the half shell with a Caribbean mignonette ($12), buttermilk fried oysters ($13), steamed littleneck clams with soffrito ($13), pan-seared sea scallops over parmesan fondue ($11), confit pork belly with hoisin bbq over white corn polenta ($11), rabbit ragu over fresh papperadelle ($12), sauteed seasonal mushrooms on toast points ($9), seared lamb loin on a rosemary skewer with homemade lavash, tsaziki and mint charmoula ($10), rustic caramelized onion and leek tartlet with sheeps milk cheese and duck prosciutto ($10), seared foie gras on toasted brioche with strawberry rhubarb compote ($15), fleetian mussels in a tomato broth with smoky bacon, cilantro, jalapeno and lime ($13), pickled red beet carpaccio and golden beet tartare with truffle honey, hazelnuts and farmer's cheese ($10), ptown mussels with fennel, sweet Italian sausage and a savory cream broth ($14)

Salads: house salad with Boston Bibb, fresh herbs, sweet 100 tomatoes and a balsamic vinaigrette ($6), roasted endive and pear salad with sweet gorgonzola dressing ($10), nicoise salad with house cured tuna, olives, quail egg, haricot vert and artichoke heart ($13), frisee salad with a panko crusted fried duck egg, lardon and mustard vinaigrette ($11).

Entrees: panko crusted sole with a lemon caper beurre blanc, cauliflower mash and local asparagus ($22), grilled organic salmon with romesco sauce, puy lentils and sauteed spinach ($24), fresh tuna bolognese over papperadelle house specialty slow simmered sauce finished with mascarpone cheese and lemon confit ($23), sauteed wild mushroom and tagliatelle pasta ($19), slow roasted pork shoulder with celery root puree and local asparagus ($22), pan-roasted haddock with salsa verde, brown butter, whipped salsify and haricot vert ($20), rabbit ragu over fresh papperadelle ($20), braised organic veal with wild mushroom jus and potato puree ($21), bone-in rib eye with truffled chips and sauteed swiss chard ($29), Niman Ranch Burgers served with house fried chips and a pickle ($9-$11).

Of the menu items I sampled there was not a dog in the bunch. The sole was light and crisp, the tuna Bolognese was rich and savory, the rabbit ragu was succulent and infused with herbs and wine. The only issue I had with any of the food was the truffled chips on the rib eye were clumsy; too many of them to be able to eat them before they got soggy. I would have preferred a pureed potato infused with truffle oil and garnished with chips (if the chef is compelled).

The wine list is impressive, with a good range on varieties and prices. The service was friendly and efficient without being intrusive. This has become one of my favorite restaurants on Cape Cod and I would encourage you to become a regular if you possibly can.

Rustic Kitchen Bistro

2009-11-24T06:47:00.004-05:00

94 Derby Street
Derby Street Shoppes
Hingham, MA 02043-4202
781-749-2700

Not Recommended

To put this in the right context, I was already in a bad mood when I arrived. It was raining and cold and the Rustic Kitchen Bistro was not a destination of choice: it was a destination of I-didn't-want-to drive-further. With that said the Rustic Kitchen Bistro did not do much to improve my evening. I walked in to the crowded restaurant and sat down at a still dirty but open seat at the bar. The soft spoken bartender, who finally came over to see what I wanted to drink, was difficult to hear over the din of the barroom. I cannot blame the bartender too much for his lack of attention; he not only had a full bar but also had 8 tables going.

The menu looked promising. I wasn't starving so I ordered simply. A glass of pinot noir, Rustic Bistro Salad and a Margherita Pizza. Like I said, I was in a bad mood. The wine was fine at $8.50 a glass. The salad ($7.50) was average to poor. I sat faced with a enormous pile of mesculm mix clumsily topped with red onions, sliced radishes, cucumber cresents (sliced cucumbers with the seeds removed)and oversized croutons. After removing the onions and croutons to a side plate for disposal I tucked into the salad. To my further disappointment the greens were limp, weak and overdressed with a sweet but otherwise flavorless dressing. To make matters worse was the garnish of a stale and useless parmesan canolli. It had obviously made a day or more earlier and was suffering for it. Salad should be simple, fresh and lightly dressed; finished with course salt and fresh cracked pepper. This missed the target on all counts.

Immediately on the heals of my salad the pizza arrived ($10.50). The oblong pie was just slightly bigger than a slice of a large pizza. The best thing I can say about the pizze is that it was hot. The sauce was insipid, the basil shredded and flavorless. The fresh mozarella was nice but the flavor of the cheese was lost until the pizza cooled.

Maybe it was just my bad mood...maybe.

Miyake

2009-10-23T21:54:00.007-04:00

Miyake
129 Spring Street
Portland, ME 04101
207-871-9170
no website

Highly Recommended

I have been negligent about posting anything for about 10 months...but I do have an alibi...I have not been traveling much, and when I have been on the road I dasn't finding anything really worth talking about...until recently. On my last trip to Portland, Maine I had the time to check out a small Japanese restaurant called "Miyake...Food Factory", a block up the street from the Holiday Inn.

I walked in early in the evening and the place was already filled. I managed to grab the last available seat at the tiny sushi bar (it seats 5) and set about establishing my personal space. I was wedged in between the person next to me at the bar, a wall to my left and a table diner about 6 inches behind me. Once I settled in I was informed that they do not have a liquor license but I was welcome to BYOB. Fortunately there is a liquor store right next door that caters to the restaurant's clientele by carrying a wide variety of sake. Not only is the selection of sake impressive but the store's employees are knowledgeable, helpful and patient.

Armed with a highly recommended bottle of training wheel sake I went back to my seat at the bar. The board of fare was limited but very impressive; fresh, local uni prepared to order and served in the shell was simply amazing, monkfish liver pate had all of the richness and unctuousness of foie gras, roasted, local pork intestines were crisp and minerally and genuinely delicious. At this point in the meal I was full and tired so I called for the check. However, I was so impressed with my initial foray into the menu that I made reservations for the next night and fasted all the next day to be sure I had enough room to explore the menu fully.

With another bottle of sake under my arm I returned the next evening. I again sat at the bar, this time front and center, and settled in. The restaurant was less hectic (my reservation was for 8 PM) and the chefs remembered me from the night before. I offered the chefs a glass of sake, which was well received and ordered the "omakase" or "chefs choice" menu. The omakase comes at three levels; 3, 5 and 7 courses. I chose the 7 course menu, poured myself a glass of sake and sat back to enjoy the show. The chefs at the bar are responsible for all of the entree preparations as well as the sushi. Everything is cut to order and presented beautifully. I cannot recall the entire meal (it was some time ago)but some of the highlights were the swordfish belly served en brodo and a selection of nigiri sushi (each topped with an Italian inspired preparation). If I recall any of the other courses I will update this review.

Just as an aside, the Chef/owner is a classically trained Italian chef. He said that he had originally opened the restaurant as a pizza place and served Japanese dishes to friends and loyal customers. The demand for the Japanese food soon drove the pizza out of the restaurant leaving the surprisingly successful marriage of Japanese and Italian cuisine.

Not only do I highly recommend Miyake, I would go so far as to say it is a must. There are a wide range of reviews for this place on line. I found the food inspired and sophisticated, the staff friendly and the location inviting. I couldn't ask for more.

The Black Trumpet Bistro

2009-01-20T17:36:00.007-05:00

29 Ceres Street,
Portsmouth, NH
Phone: 603 431 0887
Email: info@blacktrumpetbistro.com

Highly Recommended

Located on an unassuming alleyway, tucked behind, under and between trendy retail shops, the Black Trumpet Bistro is an intimate, warm and cozy restaurant. Walking in you are immediately faced with the decision of turning right into the dining room or proceeding upstairs to the bar. I chose the bar and was not disappointed. At the head of the stairs you find a small u-shaped bar and table seating for (I would guess) 20 diners. The view is not the greatest; the alley, a chain link fence, construction site and an industrial port but the place still maintains charm. Exposed brick and rough hewn beams, complete with signtures of the builders, make the place relaxing and comfortable.

The menu is divided into four sections:

LITTLE DISHES
Fried Almonds, Olives, and Garlic 5.5, Cauliflower Fritter with curried spinach sauce 5, Albondigas: Three little meatballs served in a warm poblano goat cheese and yoghurt sauce 6, Chef’s Meze Plate: a daily assortment of three little dishes in one 13.

MEDIUM DISHES
Mussels and Mahogany Clams steamed in vermouth 15, Pan-fried Veal Sweetbreads with garlicky Brussels sprouts, 15, Oil-poached yellow fin tuna 14, Cheese Fondue with roasted dipping vegetables and chickpea fries 12, a selection of cheeses [2 ounces], salads, and soups.

MAIN COURSES
Pan-roasted Lentil Galette 17, Cider-braised Pork Osso Buco 27. Seared Marinated Duck Breast 24, Pan-roasted Local Fish 25, NEFF Strip Steak 31, BT Burger 16.

DESSERTS - 8.
Chocolate panna cotta, Carrot and parsnip spice cake. Warm Brown Sugar Cake with butterschotch apples and creme fraiche, Meyer Lemon Cheesecake with pomegranate sauce and mint whipped cream.

Portsmouth has a fairly short list of truely excellent restaurants but the Black Trumpet is certainly at or near the top of that list.

Muddy River Smokehouse

2009-01-13T15:49:00.004-05:00

21 Congress Street
Portsmouth, NH 03801
Phone: (603) 430-9582
Fax: (603) 430-9338

Not Recommended

It was on a brutally cold January afternoon in the quaint New England city of Portsmouth that i stumbled into a small doorway in the heart of the city only to find myself at the beginning of a long hallway that reached invitingly back into the heart of the building. To my right, a large menu painted on the wall advertised the board of fare. To the left, a bar with a large array of taps at the ready. Further down the hallway opened into a barn boarded dining room with a high tinned ceiling and chequered table cloths. I was greeted by a slightly confused owner who did not seem to recognize me as a customer (I think she thought me a vagrant) but quickly passed me off to a waitress when she realized her mistake. I was seated at a table under a faux shed roof and offered a menu and beverage. The beer menu is extensive and included some decent choices. I had a Telluride Ale, but could have easily been satisfied with a half a dozen other options. The menu had a good range of bbq selections. Various types of ribs (St. Louis, baby back, beef) chicken, pulled pork, brisket, sausage. There were also appetizers and salads but no real surprises there either.

I have spent considerable time traveling; I have eaten ribs and brisket in Lockhart, Texas, St. Louis and Kansas City, North Carolina, Georgia, Alabama not to mention Boston and I have to admit the ribs at the Muddy River Smokehouse were some of the most forgettable I have ever eaten. Tough and chewy without a hint of smoke, slathered is a sauce so sweet that I felt nauseous by the end. The sausages were also nondescript, suffering from the same lack of attention and finesse. I am not a bbq snob by any stretch of the imagination but the sickly sweet concoction that was passed off for sauce was too much to stand.

I could see going to the Muddy River Smokehouse after work with friends for a few beers and a bit to eat. In all honesty, I will give the place a second chance and try the babyback ribs. Not my favorite ribs but they are less temperamental. My advice to the chef...lay off the sweets.

The East Coast Grill and Raw Bar

2008-11-21T14:58:00.005-05:00

1271 Cambridge Street
Cambridge, MA 02139
617-491-6568

http://www.eastcoastgrill.net/

Highly Recommended

Located in Cambridge, the East Coast Grill used to be one of my favorite haunts. Circumstances being what they are it has been many years since I have sampled Chef Chris Schlesinger’s board of fare. I must say it has not suffered for age. I would personally disagree with the choice of oysters on the raw bar menu (who eats oysters form Virginia?) but the rest of the meal was great. My appetizer choices started with Cracked Local Jonah Crab Claws, and Tuna Poke, raw tuna tossed with sesame, say, ginger, etc served on a bed of seaweed salad. Both were excellent! I then moved on to a couple of the Extremely Hot Crispy Hell Bone, St. Louis style bbq ribs doused with the Chef’s signature Inner Beauty Hot sauce. My entree was the White Pepper Crusted Tuna. This inch thick tuna steak served seared on the outside and cool on the inside, was fresh and sweet; everything I would have expected. I also got to sample the swordfish that was quite good but a bit dry. Dessert was a tasting of both a dense chocolate cake, thick and bitter with a wonderfully sweet edge, and the Key Lime Pie tart (my preference) with a touch of sweetness. This dessert was neither puckering nor clawing; a perfect end to the meal.

The appetizers start at around $8.50 and and go to $13.50 and include Middle Eastern Grilled Sirloin Skewer; Cuban Style Chile Glazed Pork Carnitas; Clam and Corn Chowder with Chiles & Sweet Potatoes; Chile Crusted Black 'n Blue Tuna Taco; Buffalo Fried Gulf White Shrimp; Prince Edward Island Mussels steamed in Coconut Milk; Ginger Tuna & Pork Sausage Dumplings; Chipotle Glazed Crispy Chicken Livers; Scotch Bonnet Sausage Stuffed Banana; and some salads.

Entrees are divided into Seafood (Mahi-Mahi, Tuna, Shrimp and Scallops), Spit Roasted and Grilled (NY Sirloin, Half Chicken, Vegetarian Skewers) and Oak Smoked Pit BBQ (Ribs, Brisket, chopped Pork). Check to online menu for details.

The East Coast Grill is fun and relaxed. Reservations are recommended.

The Pub and Restaurant

2008-11-20T19:00:00.004-05:00

20 - 22Lincoln Square
Gettysburg, PA
717-334-7100
http://www.the-pub.com/

Not Recommended

When I walked into the Pub I was pleasantly surprised. Tiffany lamps hanging from a tin ceiling mirrored subtle color across the wide, curved bar. I ordered a Smithwicks (pronounced Smivicks for the heathen) and asked for a menu. The beer was fine but the novel that was handed to me was a disaster. Too many pages of bad menu items with ads of places I will never visit on the mirror page. The menu was so predictable I could have imagined it in a bad Applebee's dream. My appetizer choices ranged from Buffalo Wings to Crab and Spinach Dip...uggghhhhh.....entrees ran the gambit from pizza to burgers and nachos. I can't tell you how bad this place was...it brings bad to a whole new level of badness...

I can't even be bothered to continue. If you are ever in Gettysburg and get tired of the haunted battlefields you can go to the Pub and see the cursed menu.

The Blue Parrott

2008-11-20T07:54:00.006-05:00

35 Chambersburg Street
Gettysburg, PA 17325
717-337-3739
http://www.blueparrotbistro.com/index.htm

Recommended

Located just off of Gettysburg's central rotary (or "round-about" for heathen not from the Northeast) is the Blue Parrot Bistro. An impeccably clean and neat establishment at first glance seemed too formal to relax in. The pool table that separates the front bar from the rear dining room quickly eliminated that concern. There is a good selection of local beer on tap and a decent selection of beers in bottles. The menu was extensive without being overly large. I choose the short ribs as an appetizer ($8) and the redfish ($21) as entree. The short ribs were excellent (though small). Three ribs, crisp on the outside and tender (without being mushy) on the inside, came with a sweet reduction sauce that left me wanting more. The redfish was fine but nothing exceptional. A very small fish, probably 10 oz when swimming. It was roasted without much attention and served on a bed of unnecessary cous cous. The sauteed greens on the side of the dish were very nice though a bit salty. I had a very disappointing apple tart for dessert. Frozen puff pastry with far to few sliced apples and an overly sweet caramel sauce ended the meal on a forgettable note.

Overall the meal was fine but unless you are driving by I would not bother.

Walker's Drive In

2008-11-01T20:40:00.002-04:00

Walker's Drive In
301 North State Street
Jackson, MS 39216
(601) 982-2633
www.walkersdrivein.com
Map

Recommended

Throw away any preconceived notions of this being an actual drive in, Walker's is actually a cozy restaurant furnished in a fun '50s feel with large black and white tiled floor, black and white booths and black chairs upholstered with bright colors. It also doesn't have the prices of an actual drive in, be prepared to shell out some cash for this restaurant as it isn't terribly cheep but it is good. They have a full bar and a decent wine selection. We started with emergency food of portobello fries with a spicy dipping sauce ($8) and braised short rib over grits (around $10). Both were delicious, and arrived fast and hot from the kitchen as we waited for the rest of the group to join us. I started with a lettuce wedge, which generally doesn't interest me so I'm not sure why I got it, but it was actually quite good. It was your typical iceburg wedge, but it was served with thick pieces of crispy bacon and big chunks of strong blue cheese with tomato and red onion that balanced out the dish, all in a creamy dressing that didn't overwhelm the other flavors. For the main meal, I had veal piccatta with crab meat, truffled risotto and asparagus ($28), a good combination of flavors. In all, a fun night and a recommended visit for a dinner out in Jackson.

Two Sisters' Kitchen

2008-11-01T20:03:00.004-04:00

707 N. Congress
Jackson, MS 39202
(601) 353-1180
Open Sunday through Friday; Sunday 10:30-2:00, weekdays 11:00-2:00
Map

Highly Recommended

My recommendation is to come early and come hungry to lunch the Two Sisters' Kitchen in Jackson. The first thing you see on entering the restaurant is the buffet line, which is the only food choices for the meal. You are seated in one of the indoor rooms of the old house in a mostly residential neighborhood not far from downtown Jackson, or outside on their patio. The wait staff will come to offer you a selection of sweet tea, unsweet tea or water, then you are free to make your way to the food. If you are looking for good, southern, down home cooking, this is absolutely the place to be. Their buffet is stocked with a variety of dishes and rotates on a daily basis, though some staples are always on the line like fried chicken and grits. The fried chicken is some of the best I've ever had (probably not saying much since I'm a northerner, albeit one who has traveled the south a bit). It was juicy and tender with just the right amount of breading. We visited on a Monday, and the country fried steak was unlike any version of the dish that I've ever had. The vegetables were for the most part good, a variety of turnip greens, black-eyed peas and other favorites. But probably the best part of the meal was the dessert. Daily they have an award winning bread pudding, served with either Jack Daniels whiskey sauce or chocolate sauce, and banana pudding, with a rotating third dessert added daily. We all had the bread pudding with Jack Daniels sauce, and it was heavenly. The pudding was light and fluffy but rich in flavor, and the whiskey sauce added just a little sweetness and kick to the finish. Even the southerners with our group appreciated the quality of their bread pudding. So if you are in Jackson at lunch time, you have to visit Two Sisters' at least once while you are in town. And the grammar lady sends kudos for the proper use of the plural possessive on their menu.

Little Tokyo Restaurant

2008-09-20T15:09:00.003-04:00

876 Avery Blvd. Ridgeland MS 39157
Tel: 601-991-3800
Fax: 601-991-3879
http://www.littletokyoms.com/index.html
Map

Highly Recommended

I have had the opportunity to eat a lot of sushi in my travels. Some of it has been extraordinary and sophisticated, some of it has been casual and fun, Little Tokyo in Jackson is a wonderful combination of both. To be honest I was surprised when I stumbled across the place while looking for a wash-and-fold laundromat. Located in a small strip mall (called the Promenade)behind a bagel place I would not have even noticed it if I hadn't thought it odd for sushi to be in Mississippi.

Several days later, after eating surprisingly excellent St.Louis style ribs from an Exxon Station just off of highway 55, I decided I needed a break from pork and pork by-products and went back to Little Tokyo. My expectations were low so as not to be disappointed, but to my surprise the menu was exciting and quite unusual. I pulled a couple of friends together and we went for lunch. We started with the appetizer menu; Broiled Yellowtail Kama, Seaweed Salad, Three Bean Roll, Eel Box Sushi, Spicy Grilled Squid, Sashimi Maki Roll and Salmon Skin Maki Roll. All were excellent! Yellowtail Kama is the fatty collar just behind the gills. If you have never ordered it, I highly recommend you do. Fatty and unctuous this cut of fish is delicious. The Three Bean Roll is light and crispy made with fried green beans and edamame with rice wrapped in a soybean wrapper. The Salmon Skin Maki is made from smoked salmon which adds an entirely new dimension to this standard menu item. The Sashimi Maki (made without rice) is cool and refreshing with tuna, yellow tail and salmon with steamed asparagus wrapped in a paper thin cucumber wrapper. The grilled squid, eel box sushi and seaweed salad were all excellent examples of these sushi menu staples. All of the nigiri sushi we ordered were excellent examples of the style. The rice was perfect and the fish top quality.

The restaurant is divided into two dining rooms; one is dedicated to the sushi bar and the other is Teppanyaki. Teppanyaki is food cooked at the table on a large open griddle and served family style. I have not eaten from the teppanyaki dining room but it was full when we were there.

One of the most outstanding things about Little Tokyo is the attention to detail paid to every preparation. Every dish presented as a work of art, beautifully designed and garnished.

Random Smoked Turkey Leg

2008-08-23T15:57:00.002-04:00

Highly Recommended

Just a note...if you happen to be in Golden, CO between late June and early October, look for the farmer's market at the intersection of 10th and Indiana. At the market, if you are lucky, will be a really shinny guy selling bbq. He has beef and pork sandwiches, a "rib sandwich" which is three Staint Louis style ribs sitting on a hamburger bun with sauce. The other thing he has is smoked turkey leg. For seven bucks you get a two and a half pound turkey leg, smoked until it runs pink all the way through and just barely falls off the bone. It was well brined and the peppery and vinegary bbq sauce served with it made it addictive. I didn't think there was any way I was going to eat the entire thing but it was so good that, by the end, I was poking around the togo box hunting for scraps.

The Fort

2008-08-23T10:31:00.005-04:00

19192 Highway 8
Morrison, CO 80465
Phone: (303) 697-4771
Fax (303) 697-9310
Map

www.thefort.com/

Highly Recommended

I think I'm in love. Sigh... Outside of Denver, nestled in native, red sandstone outcrops, is The Fort. I recommend you go the the website and read the history of the place before you go. Take a look at the menu while you are at it, just to whet your appetite.

The menu focuses on game; bison, red deer, elk, quail and duck are all featured. There are also Colorado Beef, fish and vegetarian choices. The appetizers we tried were Roast Bison Marrow Bones, BBQ'D Duck Quesadilla, Peanut Butter Stuffed Jalapeños, Lamb Riblets, Guacamole & Corn Chips and Bison "Boudies" Sausage. All were excellent (perhaps with the exception of the jalapenos that weren't bad but just sort of weird). The peanut butter cut through the heat of the chilies nicely but I still prefer goat cheese as a stuffing. As for the other apps, the marrow bones were split in half before roasting which maximized the caramelization of the marrow and provided easy access. Red Hawaiian salt and crustini completed this excellent and unctuous dish. The duck quesadilla were smokey and crisp with just a touch of heat; riblets, roasted with a sour, citrus bbq sauce that complimented the rich gamey lamb perfectly; the guacamole was fresh and chunky and the Boudies (one of my favorites, after the bones) a rich and savory forcemeat of bison, studded with pinenuts, had a wonderful, earthy taste, faintly reminiscent of blood sausage.

Entrees were equally intriguing and excellent. Buffalo Tenderloin Filet Mignon, Buffalo New York Strip, 20 oz. Bone in Buffalo Ribeye, Elk Chop and Oven Roasted Trout all made it to our table. Each dish was perfectly seasoned and cooked; served simply with choice sides. My entree was the bone in ribeye. Heavily seasoned with salt and pepper and roasted bone-in with a crisp crust outside, rare-medium-rare on the inside. If you have not had buffalo, you are in for a treat. It is similar to beef but does not have the marbeling. As a result, the flavor is less intense and should not be prepared beyond medium rare. I can't tell you how good this was! For a side I choose to replace the mashed potatoes with quinoa and heirloom tomato salad. The salad reminded me of tabouli only without parsley. It was cool and refreshing and complimented the buffalo perfectly.

I tried a taste of the Elk. Rich and delicious with a blueberry sauce that added a touch of sweetness. The reports back on all of the other dishes were glowing and a good time was had by all.

The Fort is not cheap; appetizers run from $6 to $18 and entrees from $22 to $52 but it is well worth it. The atmosphere and views are wonderful, service is attentive without being overly familiar (which I hate) and the food is fabulous. If you are in Denver this is a must! After all, you are dead for a very long time.

Simms Landing Restaurant

2008-08-21T13:06:00.007-04:00

11911 West 6th Avenue
Lakewood, CO 80401
303-237-0465
Map

www.simmslandingrestaurant.com/

Not Recommended

OK, the view is great and I like the sort of dark and dated atmosphere with the vinyl covered chairs, paneling everywhere and lobster tanks with critters suffering from altitude sickness but that is where my positive comments stop.

If you must go here, do so for a couple of drinks and maybe a plate of fried calamari but that is it. Keep away from the rest of the menu. I went with a party of 8 and none of us could report a successful meal. I ordered raw oysters for my appetizer and got served a plate of shabbily shucked, shell riddled, flavorless and textureless oysters from Connecticut. I have never eaten Connecticut oysters and (hopefully) will never repeat the experience. What I don't understand is this: Here is a restaurant sitting at the center of the country. It isn't like they are selling local product. So if they are going to go through the expense of selling shellfish that has to be flown in from halfway across the country, why not buy shellfish from Massachusetts or Oregon or somewhere else that has palatable oysters. Did the chef not try the oysters before putting them on the menu? Does the chef not know a good oyster from bad? As for the poor presentation; it is inexcusable. For a plate to get to the table looking as poor as what we were served means that there is no quality control in the kitchen or on the floor. The shucker should not have allowed his/her work to go out in that condition, the chef or expediter should have caught the poor condition of the shellfish and, failing that, the server should never have allowed the plate to reach the table.

My entree was as simple as it could be; grilled salmon, medium rare. The salmon came out medium well, not seasoned and totally lackluster. The grill was obviously not hot enough to actually "grill" the fish so it didn't have any grill marks to speak of and no resulting crust of flavor. I also should have read the menu a little closer because I was surprised by the mashed potatoes on my plate, under my fish. My surprise was quickly replaced by disappointment. These gluey, pasty, overly seasoned spuds just detracted from the already disappointing meal. The vegetable (zucchini with sugar snap peas) were worthy of a Swanson Hungry Man Dinner but that was about it.

The rest of my party reported similar issues with their meals. One diner had over cooked halibut, the other's meal was "not worth the investment" and another shrugged and said "Eh" when I inquired about the success of their meal.

Simms Landing's food should be served to souls trapped in Purgatory.

Hi-Rise Bakery

2008-07-16T08:54:00.002-04:00

56 Brattle Street, Harvard Square (in Boston)
617-492-3003
Map

Recommended

This is a great little independent bakery amongst the increasingly chain restaurant presence of Harvard Square in Boston. It is on a side street which feels relatively private, despite its close proximity to the hustle and bustle of the square proper. In the warmer months there is ample seating outside on a large patio partially shaded by large trees. In the colder months there is seating upstairs (I didn't check this out so am not sure how many people it holds).

I came for breakfast on the Boston Globe's recommendation of their Green Eggs and Ham breakfast sandwich ($6.50), though they also offer lunch. It was worth the drive to Harvard for this unique breakfast sandwich. It consisted of a fresh egg fried layered with fresh sauteed spinach and thick pieces of bacon. I also tried an offering from their bakery, a small ginger roll which was also excellent and not overly sweet with a great ginger taste. Their coffee was good, even the decaf seemed fresh.

Overall, I'd certainly recommend the Hi-Rise Bakery if you are out and about or staying near Harvard Square for both their food and the lovely outdoor seating in the summer.

May's Restaurant

2008-07-12T09:12:00.006-04:00

5640 Urbana Pike (RT 355)
Frederick, MD 21704
(301) 662-4233
http://www.maysrestaurant.com/
Map

Highly Recommended

From what I can tell May's Restaurant is a legend in Frederick. It was recommended to be by several bar tenders, a gas station attendant and the guy I asked for directions on my way there. An unassuming storefront on the Urbana Turnpike the restaurant consists of a main dining room and a large outdoor patio filled with picnic tables. The menu is extensive so I suggest you check the website for specifics.

I had been to May's for lunch and found the food and service to be excellent. I had a very large fried fish sandwich made with very fresh flounder that was served steaming hot with ample fries, slaw and malt vinegar. I managed to clean my plate but just barely.

The night I went I was with a large party (20+/-) and we were seated outside. The service was very good, maybe a bit slow, but nothing to be upset about. This isn't the kind of place where you want to hurry through your meal. I ordered the "all-you-can-eat" crabs for $30.00 and it was worth every penny. After about 10 minutes out came a large platter of brick red, steaming hot Maryland blue crabs dusted liberally with Old Bay seasoning. My neighbor and I were the only ones to order the crabs and we were the envy of the table. These crabs are served "in the rough" and take some work to break into but the reward is well worth it. There was plenty of meat in each and the process of extracting the morsels makes them all the more worthwhile. After the first couple of crabs I got the hang of butchering them and set into a productive rhythm. I think I put away about 15 or so of the large crustaceans before I had to refuse the waitress's offer for more. There are small wooden mallets on the tables to help with the demolition. I suggest wearing clothes that can handle abuse and don't plan to go anywhere after your meal other than the laundry room and shower. The meal came with a very small serving of crab soup (which reminded me of minestrone with crab) and a small serving of coleslaw. I was also supposed to get hush puppies, corn and French fries but since I viewed these as filler I didn't complain.

I didn't pay to much attention to my fellow diners while I was eating. I was enjoying myself far to much to worry about any one else. I did see a generous plate of Dungeness Crab claws out of the corner of one eye, snow crab clusters out of the corner of the other, and what may have been crab cakes and an overstuffed baked potato across the table from me but I can't be sure. Comparing notes the next day, however, I could not find a complaint in the group.

I may try asking for my crabs in smaller batches next time. I found that by the time I got through the pile the last crabs were cold making the meat a bit less cooperative coming out of the shell. I will also be sure to go early, skip lunch and bring my own bib. Also, May's doesn't do separate checks and they add gratuity to large parties.

Champion Billiards Sports Cafe

2008-05-30T20:06:00.007-04:00

5205 Buckeystown Pike
Frederick MD 21703
301-846-0089
Map

Recommended

What can I say, sometimes you just want to have a few beers, an order of wings and maybe some nachos and be done with it. Champion Billiards can fill this need for you and as many of your friends as you want to bring. A sprawling sports bar with 8 foot pool tables and a bunch of dart boards may hold the secret to a successful stress reduction seminar for the afternoon.

If you keep you expectations low you won't be disappointed. The food is ok, the atmosphere is ok, the service is ok, the prices are ok; it is pleasantly average. what makes this place work is that if is huge, loud and full of pool tables and dart boards.

Damn Yankees Steak and Oyster

2008-05-14T17:53:00.008-04:00

919 Noble St, Anniston, AL 36201
(256) 236-7000
Map

If you are unfortunate enough to find yourself in Anniston, AL your choices for a decent meal are few and far between. One decent option is the Damn Yankee Steak and Oyster. Located in the middle of the desert of downtown Anniston, this oasis may sustain you long enough to get back to the airport...maybe. Like any oasis it may not be what you would choose for a watering hole in less austere environments but then again, you are in the desert.

In all fairness, the place is not without it's charms. It definitely has a "dive bar" feel (which is not a bad thing) and there is a selection of beer beyond Bud and Bud Lite (which is not a guarantee 'round these parts). The menu, however, is a surprise. The specials included grilled snapper and some more exotic varieties that have escaped my memory. Oysters were cheap and plentiful and shucked to order by someone who obviously knows what they are doing. Gulf oysters are at the bottom of my list (coming soon) of oysters but with a little salt, lemon and Tabasco they went down just fine.

The fish was good quality and prepared well. I ordered mine with a lemon-caper-butter sauce that was inexplicably $4 extra. It was served on pasta (bad) with grilled asparagus (good). The overcooked pasta was an assortment of shapes; fusilli, farfalle, penne, rotini and small shells. The odd shapes were just strange and a bit of a pain to try and eat. They were so soft and mushy I didn't bother.

Service and value was very good. The waiter was attentive without being a pain and the check did not come with any kind of sticker shock. I think the oysters were $10 for a dozed and my entree was $22 with the addition of the sauce.

Washington DC Museum Chow

2008-04-13T17:32:00.003-04:00

I can't write with the culinary eloquence of my peers -- so I'll keep this at the simple level. If one is exiled to HQ, one is within walking distance of many fine museums, most of which have dining: a few comments on which to try (Note: prices all tend to be at the high end of the scale for a particular choice, but not outrageous -- the museums clearly see food as a profit center, not just as a service for patrons). All are within per diem -- but for some, it will be the meal of the day....

Smithsonian: Air and Space -- McDonalds and similar chain food -- Not recommended except for those with a death wish. L'Enfant Plaza Metro.
Smithsonian: Castle -- reasonable atmosphere in the main atrium of the original Smitsonian building. Most food seems prepared on site. Heavy toward sandwiches and panini. Generally reasonably good -- although leafy ingredients whether lettuce, arugola, or spinich tends to wilt. Most made up in advance, so best if you get there early to make sure they are still fresh. Recommended. Smitsonian Metro.

Smithsonian: Natural History. During the day, cafeteria is visually unusual and food is good cafeteria: but all winter long at 6:30 PM the Smithsonian Jazz Cafe plays. Cover is $12 (tickets available on line). Music is jazz of all genera -- usually with folks at the top of the jazz profession (although names may not be known to non afficiandos). Lights are dimmed and cafeteria matches many jazz clubs in ambiance. Meals far above cafeteria quality (In 2006 meals were excellent, a new contractor in 2008 has not met previous standards). All food made on site: One or two full course dinners, but also stations for pizza, tacos, salad, deserts. None gourmet, but all good. Wine and beer served, although not much variety. Somewhat pricey for the quality, but not outrageous. Food alone is recommended but when combined with the music, Strongly Recommended. Archives Metro.

National Portrait Gallery / Museum of American Art. At Gallery Place Metro. Set up is very similar to the Smithsonian Castle, but with a broader menu. Variety of sandwiches, panini, salads, etc., all prepared on site. Staff tries imaginative meals -- but with not as great success as hoped, largely due to the same problem as at the Castle: material is prepared in fairly large batches. If you get there right after, the quality is very good -- but deteriorates over time. Beer and wine served, but pricey. Seating is unique. The central courtyard has just (2008) been glassed in so you eat in comfort in a large, sunny patio. Unusual to the patio is a fountain/sculpture consisting of 5 large floor panels in a line about 10 x 20 feet each that look exactly like the slate floor if the water is off. However, when on, about 1/8 inch of water flows from one side to the other (no barriers, all down with slope and grooves). Kids are invited to splash in it -- and just about every adult does so as well. More people spend more time at this extremely simple but effective work of art than at any other in the museum -- and dining right next to the display raises the overall quality of the experience. Thus, while the food is at most recommended, the entire dining experiences is strongly recommended. Note: during the warmer months an outdoor patio restaurant above the portico is open. Food is the same, but with a great view and a great al fresco feeling.

Spy Musuem. Right across the street from the National Portrait Gallery. Great museum to visit, but not for the food. Standard musuem/cafeteria. Not recommended, but this is a neighborhood transformed in the last 20 years -- there are scads of restaurants for all tastes and per diems within easy walking distance.

American Indian Museum. Federal Center West Metro. While dining is true cafeteria style, it is unusually in that there are four different cuisines served based on four different Native American Regions in the country. Not knowing enough about the nature of Native American cuisine I cannot tell how accurate the four menus are -- but they are tasty and as about as far from the McDonald's atmosphere next door at Air and Space as you can get. Strongly recommended for the unusual nature of the food despite the bland atmosphere and cafeteria approach.

National Gallery of Art -- West Building. Garden Cafe (right below the rotunda on the floor below) is clearly the best of the bunch -- with prices to match. The cafe is actually a restaurant -- and surely has a chef rather than cooks. I can't give a full description of the meals since they often are keyed to a major exhibit in the Gallery. For example, in the spring of 2008, to support the exhibition on "Forests of Fountainbleau" the entire menu was French with a wonderful 18.95 buffet which was outstanding. Among dishes was a Ratatouille which despite being a simple stew was exquisite. Buffet was truly French in feel and taste -- ending with a variety of cheeses (and excellent bread) and pears cooked in port. Better selection of wine than in any of the other museums. I'll rate the Cafe at the high end of the strongly recommended level since much will depend on the exhibition being supported -- but over the years it has been consistently excellent. Prices are steep but not outrageous. Archives stop on Metro.

National Gallery of Art -- East Building. Archives station on Metro. A small restaurant is on the third floor (hard to tell exactly which in this unusual building) currently only open weekends, but formerly open year round. If you can sit on the patio the view of the Mall is wonderful, making for a fine meal. Limited menu, but well prepared, includes wine and beer. Prices high but within reason. Recommended.

National Gallery of Art -- Dining Hall between East and West Buildings. Underground with a highpoint of a waterfall from street level covering almost a full wall. The menu here is ambitious with stations for all sorts of different foods, all prepared on site and many prepared to order. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the food here, although it suffers from the same faults as some of the Smithsonian food if you don't get it right after it has been cooked. The down side is that it really is a very large cafeteria with cafeteria type tables. The space is so large that with hundreds of tourists and school kids, it is more a refueling site than a dining site. Still, quality of food merits a recommended rating.

National Gallery Sculpture Garden (between Natural History Museum and West Building of the National Gallery). Archives Metro. A wonderful cafeteria style cafe both in winter when the main fountain is converted into a skating rink and in the summer on Friday nights when there is a free jazz concert by the edge of the fountain. Probably the best of the "cafeteria" style museum restaurants with a good variety of different foods. Made to order meals are the best and the Tuscan Pizza is excellent. Wine and beer available. Seating inside and, in warm weather, outside, perfect for listening to the jazz. The only negative comment is that being centrally located and quite popular, especially when something is going on (concerts or skating) the lines tend to be a bit long for my taste. Food is up at the strongly recommended level but overall experience a bit degraded by the wait (and on occasion shortage of tables when there is a concert).

Museums Sans Chow: Freer Gallery (Including African and Islamic museums), Hirshorn Gallery (Serves outside during the summer from cards, not really a restaurant experience). Holocaust Museum has dining, but I have not had an opportunity to try it. American History Museum is closed for renovations through September, 2008.

Marine Corps Musuem, Quantico. Mentioned here even though it is 40 miles south of Washington down the hellacious I-95, its restaurant/pub Tuns Tavern is available. Mentioned largely as a musuem that every American should visit. Nothing more to say. The tavern itself, unfortunately, is more schlock than based on the historical Tuns Tavern. Nothing wrong with the food and a good selection of beers -- but doesn't rise above the culinary desert of the Quantico / Stafford, Virginia Area. Only Recommended, but you have to visit the museum!

Acacia

2008-03-14T20:34:00.012-04:00

129 N. Market Street
Frederick, MD 21701
301-694-3015
Map

http://www.acacia129.com/index.php

Acacia is a gem of a restaurant in the historic village of Frederick, MD. With an unassuming storefront and sidewalk placard announcing the evening specials, Acacia is not a particular standout in the downtown. However, once inside that impression changes; you know this place is something special. With locals sitting at the bar indulging in a little harmless gossip or at tables talking about their day at the office, you know that this place is for real. It does not carry any of the pretencions "see-and-be-seen" baggage of some of their competitors in town. The atmosphere is very relaxed and open without feeling like a fishbowl.

A small oak bar and tables fill in the front room of the restaurant, more formal seating in the rear. The menu, which is described as the ubiquitous "New American" has a decidedly Asian tilt to it. I ordered the Firecracker Prawns to start ($7). A generous plate of medium sized shrimp were seared with enough chilies to leave a pleasant burn on my tongue for a few minutes. For my main course, and on the advice of the bartender, I ordered the Golden Veal Scaloppini with Cremini and Shitake Madeira Demi ($24) from the specials menu. The veal was perfectly cooked; a little crispy on the outside, tender and succulent otherwise. The mushrooms, however, were too thinly sliced and were not included generously enough to make a real difference in the dish. I would recommend to the chef to either go in the direction of a duxelle (a mixture of finely chopped mushrooms, shallots and herbs cooked in butter until dry) to intensify the mushroom flavor, or a rustic approach approach, leaving the mushrooms in large pieces to emphasise their visual impact. The Maderia wine demi glace, which had no discernible Maderia flavor to it, needed some additional acid and salt to really brighten the flavors. The roasted asparagus added a very pleasant smokiness to the plate and the potatoes were fine, though baby carrots or maybe beets would have added needed color to a drab looking plate. With all this said, the dish was successful none the less. For dessert I went back to the appetizer menu for the American Artisan Cheese Plate served with roasted walnuts, toasted crustinis, apples and grapes (market price). The selection of cheeses was excellent; it ranged from a smooth and pungent soft cheese from Vermont to a bright, aggressive blue cheese from Wisconsin and four other selections in between. My only issue with the plate was that the cheeses were not presented in a tasting order so the Vermont cheese, which I tried first, overwhelmed my taste buds for the next offering.

These are some of the menu selections I am looking forward to trying in the future.
From the appetizer menu ($5 to $12):

“Hereford” Beef Tenderloin Tartar
Housemade Vegetarian Spring Rolls
Ginger -Scallion Pork Dumplings.

Entree selections ($11 to $24):

Rosemary Roasted New Zealand Saddle of Baby Lamb
Herb Grilled Tender Veal Loin Chop
Miso-Bronzed Alaskan Black Cod

Desserts ($6 or $7) Turkish Coffee Creme Brulee or Raspberry Flan Tart.

What I have to go back to with this restaurant is the genuine feeling of being welcome. The bartenders (and the clientele) were open and inviting; asking me my name and introduced themselves and warmly including me in their conversations. Food is only one part of a dining experience, especially when traveling alone. When a restaurant is fortunate enough to have gracious servers who are attracting an unassuming and interesting clientele, a little faux pas with a dish here or there is immediately forgivable. I not only recommend Acacia for dinner but I recommend becoming a regular if your time allows.

Isabella's Tavern & Tapas Bar

2008-03-14T09:24:00.008-04:00

44 N. Market Street
Frederick, MD 21701
Telephone: 301-698-8922
Fax: 301-698-5496
Map

http://www.isabellas-tavern.com/

Highly Recommended

In the middle of downtown, historic Frederic, MD is Isabella's Tavern and Tapas Bar. If you are unfamiliar with Spanish Tapas you have something to look forward to. Tapas are essentially appetizer selections, served either hot or cold, typically with beer or Sangria. The word tapa means "lid" or "cover" in Spanish and there are some interesting theories on how the word was adopted to describe these small servings. My favorite is the idea that because tapas bars are so popular patrons would place their plates on top of their drinks (like lids) to accommodate others.

Isabella's is a great example of a Tapas Bar. Crowded and noisy it is a great place to go with friends after work or maybe on a first date. It is very informal and the extensive menu gives you a lot to talk about. Do not feel the need to order everything at once. You may order a beer and one or two selections and then switch to wine and enjoy a few more. Also, tapas is meant for sharing and at Isabella's the portions are generous so sharing is easy. I don't think you would need to order more than 3 or 4 tapas each. The variety of the selections is impressive. My first visit I had the Fritos de Datiles Y Chorizo (Crispy Bacon Wrapped Spanish Dates Stuffed with Chorizo on Mild Goat Cheese Cream), Ceviche (Citrus Marinated Seafood Salad) and Short Ribs. The first two tapa were wonderful! The combination of smokey savory bacon and rich, sweet dates was amazing. The ceviche of shrimp and scallops was tart and spicy without overwhelming the delicate seafood. The disappointing selection of the evening was the short ribs. The ribs reminded me more of thin, dry pork chops than the succulent short ribs I expected and were served with a thin and useless gravy. They were a major disappointment, especially since short ribs are one of my favorite foods. On my second visit I went with a large group of friends and had a chance to try a large number of items. The memory of the Chorizo a la Parrilla con Pure de Papa y Ajo (Grilled Wild Boar Chorizo on Garlic Mashed) leaves my mouth watering. They were rich and gamey with a spicy after note, topped with a perfect reduction sauce. The Gambas al Ajillo y Tomate (Tiger Prawns in a Tomato, Garlic, Herbs, Wine, Lemon Sauce) were perfectly cooked and the sauce was exactly what crusty bread was made for. The Esparragos Fritos con Salsa Alioli Tomate (Crispy Panko Crusted Asparagus "Fries" with Smoked Tomato Alioli) were served upright is a wine glass, with their bases tucked into the alioli. One of my favorites of the night were the Boquerones en Vinagre (Marinated Anchovies on Shaved Red Onions, Capers, Olive Oil and Fresh Parsley) though the capers had been replaced with large green olives and then the whole lot skewered. This tapa is one of the classic examples of how quality ingredients, creatively paired and presented can transcend the sum of the parts. The salty, sour, spicy combination made me very happy. For dessert I had the Flan de Asturias (Classic Spanish Custard Dessert with Caramel Sauce). This creamy, sweet custard with a slightly burnt (on purpose) caramel sauce was the perfect ending to the evening.

There were many other tapas being passed around that evening, paired with wine, beer and good conversation all orchestrated by helpful, informative servers. I cannot describe all of them but there was not a disappointing plate on the table.

Prices for tapas run from around 3 to 10 dollars and desserts were all around six bucks. From what I saw and ate it is all a bargain. Isabella's also has full entrees including selections of paella. Those will have to wait for another visit.

If you have never had tapas you owe it to yourself and Isabella's would be a great place to start. If you are a fan of tapas already you will not be disappointed. I look forward to my next visit; there are many, many other tapas I am looking forward to.

The Tasting Room

2008-03-13T14:02:00.007-04:00

The Tasting Room
101 N Market St,
Frederick, MD 21701
(240) 379-7772
Map

http://www.tastetr.com/

The Tasting Room stands out in down town Frederick. The restaurant occupies the corner of Church and Market streets with an imposing glass and metal facade that contrasts to the otherwise hisoric feel of the downtown area. The restaurant sits close to 100 (my best guess) at close set tables and at a large, albeit cramped, curved poured concrete bar. The dining room has an industrial decore, with high ceilings and exposed ductwork. The overall effect is upscale casual but the feels a bit sterile and the acoustics make the space quite loud.

The menu has changed since I ate there so I won't dwell on specific menu items. I have eaten dinner there several time, lunch once. Dinner was a much better experience. The lunch menu was clumsy and poorly represented by the server. Questions on the lunch menu were answered incorrectly leading to an overall poor experience. Dinner was quite a bit better (prices running from $19 to $36) and the service was fine. There were really no suprises here, which was disappointing. My biggest issue with the Tasting Room is that the place seems more focused on the ambience rather than the food or service. My impression is that it is a "see and be seen" destinatin, lacking soul. In contrast to many of the other restaurants in Frederick which are warm and inviting, with staff and clientel welcoming to travelers, the Tasting Room seems aloof and haughty. It may be a perfect location for a business lunch or a first date, the lack of warmth and charm was off putting to the lone traveler.

Meyers and Chang

2008-03-08T16:12:00.006-05:00

1145 Washington St
South End, Boston
617.542.5200
http://www.myspace.com/myersandchang
Map

Highly Recommended

This new addition to Boston's Chinese restaurant scene is quite different from the more traditional Chinatown restaurants not too far away. It has almost a diner-meets-Asia feel to it with plastic bar stools and tables reminiscent of '70s kitchen tables but with a modern flair. The large windows looking out to the corner of Washington Street and East Berkley Street are covered with large stylized red dragons that make an impression while still allowing in plenty of light (though it was dark on our visit there).

The food was also not your traditional Chinatown fair, it is a mix of food inspired by different Asian regions. The waiter pointed out that the plates are small, and therefor meant for sharing and mixing. He recommended that we get 4-5 plates for the two of us. Although we had snacked some before heading out, that estimate was much too high. The plates may be small, but the food is rich and filling. We ordered three plates and found they were more than enough. The prices are reasonable at $4-$13 per plate. This restaurant serves a mix of wine, beer and saki as well.

We ordered Mama Chang's pork and chive dumplings ($11), a plate of decently sized pot-sticker style dumplings made with fresh fillings and dough, served with a side of soy sauce. They were delicious with perfectly browned and crispy sides filled with a fresh pork and chive filling that wasn't watery or greasy like similar dumplings from other restaurants. We also ordered the wok-charred udon noodles ($11) made with chicken and baby bok choy. This dish was filling and tasty, and showed off the versatility of the udon noodles when taking on the charred/browned taste of the pan and sauce it was cooked in. Last was the traditional scallion pancake ($7) which was good, but my least favorite of the plates. It was a little doughy for my taste, though the flavor was enhanced by the thin, reddish sauce served along side (though the salt content of the sauce was probably not good for me).

The server brought our bill with small dishes of lemon and ginger mouse, the perfect way to end this meal with just a touch of sweet and tart. The bill came tucked into a little golden pig, a nice change from the ubiquitous black folder usually found in restaurants.

I look forward to visiting Meyers and Chang again to try some of the other tempting dishes on the menu, though it may be difficult to get a large group into this relatively small space. Parking is limited in that area, though there is a lot on Harrison Ave a couple of blocks away that we were able to get into.

Kinkead's

2008-03-06T09:35:00.001-05:00

2000 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW
Washington DC
202-296-7700
http://www.kinkead.com/kinkead/kinkead.htm
Map

Highly Recommended

Located in the Foggy Bottom neighborhood of DC, close to Washington Circle, Kinkead’s shares a food court with 8 or so other establishments collectively called “The Restaurants at 2000 Pennsylvania Ave”.

There are three distinct personalities to Kinkead’s. The first is the white collar, après work bar scene which is crowded and loud without much room to move. With that said I was not left thirsty by the very attentive and observant bartenders who were not too busy to quickly get me my beer of choice (poured into a closely examined glass) with a dish of mixed nuts. The second is the first flood dining experience. Tables are available just a few feet away from the bar but situated in such away that, although you can still hear and see the activity, you have a comfortable feeling of separation and it is quiet enough to carry on dinner conversation. The third personality is located upstairs. I did not have the opportunity to do up and look around but I am told it is a more upscale dining experience using the same menu as downstairs.

We did not have a reservation but there was no problem seating 5 of us at 7:00 on a Wednesday evening. Bread, butter and wine were served quickly and efficiently. The menu had many choices that were appealing, though I won’t go into specifics; the menu changes nightly. The menu is heavily focused on seafood. From the appetizer menu, notables were the variety of oysters from the raw bar (sadly none from my home town of Wellfleet MA, though they did feature Wellfleet Littlenecks), butter poached lobster and tuna tartar. There were also butternut raviolis and other non-fish selections. I choose the grilled squid with creamy polenta, tomato fondue and pesto. This was an amazing dish! The grilled squid was an 8 inch piece of solid squid tentacle (I assume) cooked perfectly, with a crisp exterior and tender, solid inside. The tomato and pesto added just enough herb and acid to brighten the squid without overwhelming the subtle flavor. I wish I had asked about what kind of squid they used; it was truly a unique experience for me.

The entrée menu again focused on seafood, ranging from simply grilled fish to pan roasted scallops, seared tuna and crispy black flounder. From the meat side of the menu I honestly only remember my entrée which was the braised short rib. This entrée was as close to perfection as one could reasonably expect. A large, meaty, succulent, unctuous short rib set on a bed of whipped sweet potato and sided with roasted baby parsnips. The dish was sauced with a mildly sweet reduction that performed admirably highlighting the entrée without clawing my pallet. I was in heaven! The only negative I could come up with is that the sweet potatoes had been salted a bit too aggressively. Aside from that minor transgression all I can say is “WOW”!

I passed on dessert but my friends had no such will power. I saw the Trio of Crèmes Brulees and the Molten Bittersweet Chocolate Cake. Both looked beautiful and my friends assured me they were delicious.

The downturn of the evening is when it was time to leave. We had enjoyed a wonderful meal and were anxious to return to our respective hotels but our server was no where to be found. After a 15 minute wait, looking around the restaurant for our waiter like a table of Meerkats we saw him go out the front door with his coat on. We flagged down the Maitre d’ to get our bill. The server who delivered our bill apologized saying “We thought you had already paid…” Unfortunately it took us about 40 minutes just to settle the bill.

Kinkead’s is not inexpensive. Dinner ran us about $80 each (not including wine which was provided by a generous friend at the table) but it was worth every penny. The minor issues with a bit too much salt and a server who probably had to pick a kid up at the baby sitter’s did not detract from the evening or the value at all. $80 for dinner is not a high price to pay for the high quality and innovative menu and fun atmosphere. You can easily pay that price and receive much less.

Market Inn

2008-02-27T08:35:00.001-05:00

Market Inn
200 E St SW
Washington, DC 20024
(202) 554-2100

http://www.freshcrabcakes.com/
Map

Recommended

The Market Inn is an interesting throwback to restaurants from an earlier time. The whole experience somehow reminded me of a restaurant I used to go to with my parents in the early 1970s. The exterior looks like a dive bar and the interior is a bit dark and oppressive with tables a bit too close for my comfort. The servers all seem to be professional waiters. No one here is expecting to grow up to be something else.

Dinner began with a bread basket; dinner rolls and little packages of crackers and a side plate with a 1 ounce ice cream scoop of some kind of whipped cheese (maybe cheddar) sitting on it. I would recommend leaving the cheese alone. The dinner menu is extensive, with a focus on seafood. I chose to go with the "Before Theater Complete Dinner Menu" which is available from 4:00 - 6:30 nightly for $25.00. It came with choices of soup, entree and dessert. I ordered the She-Crab soup; a slightly sweet thick and rich cream based soup with lots of crab and dollop of sour cream. It was excellent! For my entree is ordered the Captain's Seafood Sampler . The selection of fish was fine: Jumbo Shrimp, Crab Cake, & Fillet of Fish...Served Broiled or Deep Fried, I ordered mine broiled. The crab cake was very good, the shrimp a little less so and the fish was boring and bland. However, I was not disappointed. For dessert I got the Key Lime Pie. Please do not make this mistake. I have eaten lots of Key Lime Pie and this was the strangest (and the worst) I have ever eaten. The flavorless (and unnecessary) graham cracker crust was stuck onto a gelatinous sort of confection that reminded me of citrus flavored petroleum jelly topped with marshmallow that had gone horribly wrong. Be safe and go for the ice cream.

Appetizers run from 8 to 18 dollars, soups 6 to 10, salads and cold seafood platters 4 to 25. Entrees will cost you from 19 dollars (fish and chips) to about 35 dollars (Steak and Seafood Combination platter).

Despite some of the shortcomings, I would not steer you away from the Market Inn. It is charming (the walls covered with paintings of topless women ensure that) and the food isn't bad. There is entertainment nightly. The evening I was there featured a piano player singing all my favorites from before I was born. There are much better choices in the city but not in the area. If you are staying at the Marriott Residence Inn you should go if for no other reason than it is just a couple of blocks away.

Capitol City Brewing Company

2008-02-24T15:29:00.004-05:00

Capitol City Brewing Company
Downtown, DC 1100 New York Ave,
NW (202) 628-2222
or
Capitol Hill, DC 2 Massachusetts Ave,
NE(202) 842-BEER
or
Arlington, VA 2700 S. Quincy St
(703) 578-3888
http://www.capcitybrew.com/

Recommended

Not a bad choice for beer in the DC area. A decent selection of brews makes the Capitol City Brewing Company a good destination.

There are 4 signature beers on tap: Amber Ale, Porter, Kolsch, and Pale Ale. I tasted them all and found the Pale Ale to be the most interesting. It is nicely hopped with a decent, controlled, bitter finish.

The food menu is CCBC's weakness. It is the standard pub menu with burgers and such. There are steaks and pastas etc. on the entree menu but it is safe to say you shouldn't be deciding to go here for good eats. Watch out for the on-line menus. The prices listed online are lower than you are going to find when you walk in.

There are 3 locations in the DC area. The one I visited the downtown DC location. The brew pub is a large, industrial style space with 20 foot ceilings, suspended scaffolding and lighting. It is a very loud space, with no feeling of privacy or intimacy at all. Sitting at the bar I was unfortunately able to hear every work coming from the group in a booth 20 or so feet away. It is a great place to meet friends after work for a few pops but I would not bring a date or business associate there.

Wok and Roll

2008-02-24T11:04:00.000-05:00

Wok and Roll
604 H Street, NW
Washington, DC
phone: 202-347-4656 or 347-7688
fax: 202-783-2941
http://www.woknrolldc.com/
Map

Highly Recommended

Don't let appearances be deceiving. This unassuming little Chinese/Japanese restaurant is dishing out one of the best sushi experiences I have had in a long time. I see this place as sushi the way it is meant to be. A casual dining experience made more enjoyable by interaction with knowledgeable chefs and servers.

I sat down at the sushi bar to be greeted warmly by the chefs standing in from of me. Despite the crowded restaurant (I didn't know it was "sushi happy hour" at the time) the chef gave me his full attention. I ordered my usual starters of tomago (egg omelet) and hamachi (yellowtail) and a large hot sake. The four nigiri style sushi (oblong mound of sushi rice that is pressed between the palms of the hands, with a speck of wasabi and a slice of topping called neta draped over it) arrived quickly along with a free sample of the sweet shrimp special of the evening. My sake also arrived at this time. The large sake carafe was filled to the brim and delivered in a hot water bath, a very nice touch. The chef also told me that it was sushi happy hour, with a generous selection of sushi for $1.00 a piece. I took advantage of the offer and worked my way through a good portion of the happy hour menu. All of the neta (sushi toppings) were excellent quality, served artistically and none were "happy hour" sized.

I tried the tuna tartar which was prepared to order and topped with black tobiko. The fish had a soft, rich texture that was accentuated by the crisp fish eggs. I also tried the Sakura roll. A tear shaped maki roll of tuna, salmon and yellowtail with tobiko and avocado wrapped in pink "bean seaweed". This maki roll was excellent with just enough rice to hold all of the ingredients together. The chef also gave me a sample of the chu-toro (cut slightly to the rear of the tuna and is less fatty, therefore less expensive than O-toro, the premium tuna belly) which was excellent, served slightly seared to accentuate the fattiness of the fish.

The prices for the sushi at Wok and Roll are reasonable, ranging from 3 - 7 dollars for nigiri sushi and 3 - 10 dollars for maki rolls. The also have a full entree menu for folks not comfortable with the raw fish scene. Happy hour runs from 4 to 8 Monday through Friday...a must...seriously.

The website has their menu and specials and delivery is available for free (on orders over $15).

I have been back several times since my first visit and the chef still remembers me. Another plus for a tired traveler.

Il Fornaio

2008-02-24T10:34:00.000-05:00

24 West Union Street(Located in the One Colorado Shopping Center)
Pasadena, CA 91103
Phone: 626.683.9797
Email: pasadena@ilfo.com
Map

Highly Recommended

This is a chain restaurant that does things right: white linens on the tables; open hearth, wood fired ovens; wait staff in long, white aprons and the overall feel of authentic Italian trattoria (or so I would imagine) I cannot say enough positive things about this place.

The menu has so many interesting selections return visits are a must. The appetizer menu runs from 7 - 13 dollars. I started with the Calamaretti Fritti (for $9.95). , served with spicy marinara sauce. A generous portion of baby squid, lightly floured and deep fried; simply prepared with excellent results.

I then went on to the Insalata di Bietole (for $7.75) Organic red and gold beets with red wine vinegar, wild arugula, toasted walnuts and Asiago cheese; lemon-olive oil dressing. If I had to find anything negative to say about this meal, it would be that the walnuts did not add a lot to the dish but otherwise the salad was without flaw. The dressing was very light in flavor and applied sparingly so as not to overwhelm any of the other components of the dish. The combination of the mild bitterness of the arugula and the earthy sweetness of the beets were pulled together perfectly by the Asiago. Too many times I have seen a salad like this topped with a blue or green cheese which overwhelms all other ingredients. Bravo for restraint!

My entree was the Gnocchi Emilia (for $14.95). In house made potato dumplings with butternut squash, Italian ham, porcini mushroom, truffle oil and cream. Once again, a definite winner! The dumplings were soft but resilient and the rest of the ingredients were applied to compliment them. There was just enough cream sauce to coat each dumpling, porchini and truffle oil scented the cream, without overpowering and the saltiness of the ham pulled it all together. Once again, the success of this dish lies not only in the ingredients but how they are applied to compliment the whole dish.

I sat at the bar and was well taken care of. The bartender gave good advise on wine by the glass and ensured my meal was served promptly. I was on my way to the airport and the bartender lived up to her promise to get me out of the restaurant in under 45 minutes.

I hope this chain of restaurants spreads east, setting the standard for unpretentious excellence.

Sushi Roku

2008-02-24T10:05:00.000-05:00

Sushi Roku
33 Miller Alley Pasadena, CA 91103 (626) 683-3000
Map

Not Recommended

A product of the Innovative Dining Group, owners of Katana and Balboa in West Hollywood, Boa in Hollywood, Santa Monica and Las Vegas and the Robata Bar in Santa Monica, have taken one of my favorite culinary art forms, sushi, and degraded it to a flashy disappointment. Despite the striking atmosphere in the Pasadena location the sushi itself is ultimately forgettable. I sat at the sushi bar and was served very small cuts of fish, either overly vinegary or served with heavy handed wasabi. The rice was not prepared well, with a very soft and unpleasant texture. I ordered tomago (egg omelet) hamachi (yellow tail) and hirame (halibut) as my first course. Served out of order (in my opinion tomago should always be served first) the hirame arrived first. The rice was so heavily vinegared as to overwhelm the fish completely and ruin my palate for the hamachi that arrived next. The hamachi had so much wasabi to render the fish irrelevant and the tomago, served last, was nearly frozen on rice that was so sweet as to be almost candy-like. My next course was maguro, (tuna), aji (Spanish mackerel) and a Soft Shell Crab maki roll. Again every piece served was a disappointment. The maguro, like the hamachi, was so heavily spiced with wasabi it made my nose run, the aji, so heavily vinegared the rice fell apart on the plate and (most disappointing of all) the soft shell crab roll was served as an inside out roll (bad idea, the heat from the fried crab ruins the nori by steaming it and making it chewy) pre-made so it arrived soggy and cold.

The atmosphere is very nice but service is a bit asinine. At 45 years old, I don't need to be called young man or “bro” by my 20-something year old waiter.

If you want nice surroundings and overly friendly wait staff and aren’t afraid to pay dearly for it, this may be your kind of place. If you want good sushi, carefully prepared and served in an appropriate manner I strongly suggest finding an alternative.

Plaza III

2008-02-24T08:36:00.000-05:00

Plaza III
4749 Pennsylvania Ave Kansas City, MO 64112
(816) 753-0000
http://www.plazaiiisteakhouse.com/
Map

Not Recommended

How can I put this gently…despite receiving multiple awards: 2006 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence, 2006 Tom Horan's America's Top 10 Club, 2006 Ingram's 2004 Best Overall Restaurant I found the experience to be so underwhelming…so pedestrian…so unimpressive that I can’t understand how this restaurant received any accolades at all.

The meal opened with a tureen of crudites (celery, carrots and radishes served on a bed of ice) that was attractive but no thought was given to the fact that I needed to use a knife to cut the veggies just to make them small enough to eat. The dip that was serves along side was a weak, thin ranch dressing that was boring, to say the least. The bread board was fine; though the bread was bland (I think the baker forgot to add salt).

I ordered a cup of seafood bisque as an appetizer. The waiter delivered a sub-par bisque with a grainy texture and no real seafood flavor to speak of.

For my entrée I ordered the Steak au Fromage, a 10 ounce New York strip steak with blue cheese butter on top. Despite the websites claim that their beef is aged in a "...temperature-controlled, specially-designed Beef Locker for 21-28 days to develop natural tenderness and exceptional flavor" the waiter told us that the meat was “Wet aged for three weeks”. There is a tremendous difference between wet and dry aging. Dry aging tenderizes the meat while concentrating flavor. The process takes special care and is very time consuming and expensive, requiring extra effort, storage and high-quality beef. Wet aging will break down the meat and tenderize it to a degree, but offers little else. In wet aging, the beef sits in a “cry-o-vac” package, marinating in its own blood and inter-cellular fluids. Not very appetizing.

The steak was cooked to the correct temperature (I had ordered it medium-rare) and the blue cheese butter on top melted away leaving a thin blue cheese essence behind. The steak would have been better off accompanied by a simple slice of good quality Gorgonzola. To add insult to the injury of the $40.00 price for the steak was the $8.00 price for the insipid side of Lyonnaise potatoes. Apparently the chef (like the baker) had never heard of salt...or pepper. The entire presentation of my entrée was careless and detracted from the experience. The over-large plate emphasized the fact that I just paid forty bucks for this entree. The steak had a 2 ounce ice cream scoop of blue cheese butter and a lump of curly-leafed parsley tossed unimaginatively on the plate. Had the kitchen at least had the decency to put Italian parsley or arugula or another culinary herb on the plate I could have eaten it with the steak to add a little interest.

I passed on the dessert menu and then grudging paid $80.00 dollars (including tip) for what should have been a $40.00 meal. I have no issue paying top dollar for quality food that is prepared with attention to detail. Plaza III is obviously cashing in on the steak house craze that is running around the country but in no way, shape of form does it deliver.

Smokestack Bar-B-Q

2008-02-24T07:14:00.000-05:00

Smokestack Bar-B-Q
8920 Wornall
Kansas City, Missouri
Phone: 816-444-5542
Fax: 816-822-0198
Map

Highly Recommended

Off of Wornall Street, a block up from Ward Boulevard lined with Corporate Offices and homes that are just shy of Newport Rhode Island mansions is Smokehouse Bar-B-Q. Smokehouse Bar-B-Q very small and unassuming storefront tucked into a corner of a tiny shopping plaza. The restaurant sits about 50 people and the day I was there for lunch, there wasn’t an empty seat in the place.

The menu was inclusive: ribs, sausages, burnt ends (crispy little chunks of beef, cooked well done), chicken, turkey, ham, wings and baked potato stuffed with Poor Russ Meat (finely chopped burnt ends). Lunch plates run from about $7.50 to $9.15 and, from what I saw going by my table, are all piled very generously. Salads and Appetizers listed were not very surprising: house, chef’s, grilled and fried chicken salads and onion rings, mushrooms and Cajun wings under the apps.

I had the “His Ribness” which is a plate full of ribs, fries, pit beans, pickles and toast. The 6 ribs were cut from a rack of spare ribs, sauced generously with vinegary tomato based bbq sauce. The pit beans were very good (although cold) in what I assume is the same sauce that was slathered on my ribs. The beans came in a side dish with an equal ratio of small pieces of smoked meat. The fries were non-descript and I left them (and the slice of white toast) sitting on the plate.

Service was fast, friendly and attentive. I was in and out in under 30 minutes and was so generously fed that I can go into hibernation for the rest of the day.

I found everything I could have wanted in a bbq joint with one exception…no beer. I did not ask about bringing in my own.